my recipe project / recipes, writings, & crafts of Jessica J. Lee

second supper: aubergine and cannellini bean pasta.

2012-01-25T21:28:00.000-08:00

This is not a complaint. It's merely the truth. I get home from work really, really late. Some days, I teach until 10 p.m., then have a ninety minute commute across town to get home. Some days, I work at a part-time job til 3 a.m. In both cases, I have to eat many hours beforehand and wade through hours of foodless pointlessness. Because everything - including the class I'm teaching - seems pointless when there isn't food involved.

Therein lies the dilemma. I need a second dinner. When I roll home at midnight, stomach grumbling, it's not enough to go to bed. It's not enough to have a slice of toast. So this has become the hour at which I really inhabit the kitchen, cooking a late-night supper and, usually, lunch for the next day. Sometimes it's cheese on toast, sometimes soup, sometimes pasta. Lately, it's been pasta. God - I love carbs. Eaten in bed, with an episode of Masterchef to lull me into a sleep-ready stupor. Like this dish, on my bedside table.

This aubergine and cannellini bean dish goes a long way - it's filling, incredibly simple for a late-night, exhausted mind, and carries on well into the next day for lunches. I make it with adorable tiny pasta shells, which always make me feel childlike. Everything is small and bean-sized, which my nocturnal mind finds amusing. Oh - and it tastes nice. Salty capers, warm chilli, sweet tomato. Pretty comforting at any time of day.

*****

1 small aubergine, diced
1 tbsp. sundried tomato pesto
2 cups tinned chopped tomatoes
1 cup tinned cannellini beans, drained
1 tsp. capers, chopped
1 tsp. chili flakes
flat leaf parsley, chopped
olive oil
salt and pepper

150 grams shell pasta, cooked

1. In a large pan, over medium-high heat, warm some olive oil and fry off your aubergine. Once it has reduced in size, season to taste and add your pesto. A splash of water can help it come together. 2. Add your tinned tomatoes and beans and bring to a simmer. Stir in your capers and chilies, season, and continue to cook for about five minutes on medium heat. 3. Stir in your cooked pasta, season to taste, and serve with parsley and a drizzle of olive oil.

daring to... host? sourdough bread with the daring bakers.

2011-12-27T01:19:00.000-08:00

Berger and Wise, The Guardian, 2011.

daring bakers, december.

Well, it finally came. December. The month I'd been anticipating all year. The month for which I'd planned, practiced, and panicked all year. I was hosting Daring Bakers this month. Which meant choosing the recipe, writing the guidelines, and holding lots of virtual hands.

I really, truly hope everyone had as much fun as I did this month. I was absolutely thrilled to see everyone's loaves - some tall, some small, all beautiful. You all achieved a fantastic crumb. The ideas I've seen for showcasing the bread were mind-blowing, and I will be adding them to my repertoire immediately.

Baking with Daring Bakers this month has meant a lot to me. It's given me something to work towards all year - a year where just about everything in my life has changed. New city, new job, newly single - but having DB December to work towards was an enormous help. At risk of being earnest, it forced me to have a little fun, try new things, and in a small but not insignificant way, trust that everything would work out alright.

Thanks to everyone at the Daring Kitchen for making this such a delight - especially to Lis, Ivonne, and Audax for their help along the way. I hope you've all fallen in love with sourdough as much as I have and now have plenty of reasons to eat good bread.

Head on over to the Blogroll to see everyone's fantastic work.

Blog-checking lines: Our Daring Bakers Host for December 2011 was Jessica of My Recipe Project and she showed us how fun it is to create Sour Dough bread in our own kitchens! She provided us with Sour Dough recipes from Bread Matters by Andrew Whitley as well as delicious recipes to use our Sour Dough bread in from Tonia George’s Things on Toast and Canteen’s Great British Food!

*****

Hi everyone, I’m Jessica from My Recipe Project. I’m very excited to be your host this month and am even more delighted to be sharing my favourite bit of baking with you: sourdough bread!

What’s that, you say? Sourdough is made without adding any yeast or leavening, so we’ll be fermenting our own sourdough ‘starters’. The natural yeasts in the flour do the work of making a lovely loaf of bread – we just facilitate that process. Sourdough is basically bread as your great-, great- grandmother knew it, before the days of Chorleywood (i.e. factory-made, steamed, sliced, additive-filled) bread and packaged yeast. It takes time, but not too much active work – so don’t panic! And it’s very worthwhile – many people find sourdough a bit easier to digest (because the naturally-occurring lactobacilli have done a lot of the digestion work over the long preparation time), the slow-process means many of the good nutrients in the bread are more available for digestion, and while factory-made bread can contain 15+ ingredients, sourdough only needs three: flour, salt, and water. I’ve provided three recipes: one rye bread, one wheat bread, and one gluten-free option. If you are gluten-free, you don’t have to use this recipe – I thought I’d provide it just in case!

Once you have a beautiful loaf of sourdough, we’ll be showcasing our bread using a recipe of our own choice, though I’ve given a couple suggestions. In a very British approach to this month’s challenge, I’ve suggested a) Welsh Rarebit; or b ) Mushrooms on Toast. But these are just suggestions – be creative and come up with your own if you like! The idea is to show how good bread is central to the history of food – and it can be the canvas on which we deliver so many other flavours.

So how does sourdough work, you ask? Sourdough starts with a ‘starter’ or ‘leaven’, basically a flour and water dough that is fermented over about 4 or more days. The older your starter, the more flavourful your bread will be – this is because the lactobacilli in the dough help digest the flour, adding the strong, sour flavour and making it more digestible, kind of like yoghurt. The bakery I used to buy bread from in London had a starter that was over 150 years old! Basically, as the starter ferments, the wild yeasts on the flour begin to eat the sugar in the dough – releasing carbon dioxide bubbles. This starter forms the base of your dough, leading to a nice, slow rise!

I first ate sourdough many years ago, while living in Nova Scotia, but it wasn’t until moving to England that I started learning how to bake my own. After lots of practice, I’ve been baking all my own bread for over a year now, so hopefully I’ll be able to guide you through this month. The biggest challenges I had when starting out were getting over my squeamishness about messy dough, because sourdough will be much wetter than most yeasted doughs, and learning how to fit the time-sensitive process into my busy lifestyle. Each of the recipes given here have different time requirements, so have a look at what works best for you, and see the tips in the Notes section! Good luck and good baking – I look forward to some stunning breads and bread-based dishes!

Recipe Source: For the bread recipes, I’ve turned to my bible of bread: Bread Matters by Andrew Whitley. We’ll be baking his “French Country Bread”, “Russian Rye Bread”, or “Rice, Brazil Nut, and Flaxseed Bread”. We’re also using Canteen’s Great British Food for the “Welsh Rarebit” recipe and Tonia George’s Things on Toast for “Garlic and Oregano Roasted Mushrooms on Toasted Sourdough”.

Notes:
• Good bread starts with good flour. Beyond trying to find good quality, local (organic if possible) flour, Whitley recommends finding out three things: how was it milled? (stoneground ideally, to retain more nutrients); how much of the original grain is left in the flour (ideally 95-100 % for bread making); and lastly, how much protein is in the flour? (the more protein, the more gluten, leading to a more stretchy dough – ‘strong’ or ‘bread’ flour indicates a higher level of protein).
• Normal tap water is fine in most cases, unless you live in a municipality that heavily chlorinates the water. Chlorine will kill almost all bacteria, including your yeast, so you’ll want to use filtered water if you can. Whitley says that leaving water in a pitcher overnight can rid most of the chlorine.
• If you clean your kitchen with anti-bacterial products or harsh cleaners, try not to do it before baking and make sure your bowls are clean but have no chemical residue left on them! Many a bread has been deflated by an overly-sterilised kitchen.
• All of these recipes call for sea salt because it retains a higher level of minerals and has a stronger salt taste, meaning you can use less of it. Never add salt directly to your starter – it will kill the yeast, so use the following method: dissolve your starter in water, stir your salt through your flour, then mix the wet with the dry ingredients.
• When greasing pans for baking, try to use hard fats like butter because oil can drip down the pans and lead to a fried bottom on your loaf!
• When working with the dough, you might feel inclined to heavily flour your work surface or your hands. Resist this urge! Sourdough is meant to be wet and sticky – this helps to give the bread a nice crumb once it has baked. I work most doughs with my hands, but sometimes use a dough scraper to help lift and fold the dough. When I need to pick up or shape a loaf, I find damp hands work better than floured ones!
• If you don’t have dough scrapers, old bank cards/credit cards work just as well! But wash them thoroughly first.
• Try to work with your hands to make these recipes – mixing and kneading the dough by hand means you’ll get a better sense of how your dough should feel! We learn by doing!
• Remember, a lot of these timings are guidelines – pay attention as, depending on temperature and your starter, you may need more or less time to proof your dough. You want a dough that resists poking a bit (if you poke it, the hole will disappear) but not one that quivers all over and seems really fragile.
• Cutting the top of your loaf before it goes in the oven helps it to expand or split at those points. This means you don’t end up with funny outgrowths from your bread! You want to be quick, gentle, and use a very sharp blade – see the video at the end for tips.
• Notes on scheduling: For the Rye loaf, and all the other starters, I find it helpful to start the process on a Monday, so that come Friday/Saturday you are ready to bake. I refresh my starter (Stage 1) the night before baking, then do Stage 2 in the morning. For the French Country Bread, I refresh the starter in the morning, make the final dough at lunchtime, and bake at dinner time. For the Rice Sourdough, I soak the flaxseeds on a Friday morning, refresh my starter on Saturday morning, the prep the final dough at lunchtime, ready to bake at dinner.
• I would set the difficulty level of these recipes as: Rye – Easy!, French Country Bread – Med-Hard!, Rice Sourdough – Easy!
• Once you’ve finished baking, you’ll have some leftover starter. Keep this in a Tupperware container, as this is what you will use to start your next loaf (and so on…)! Some of the best starters are hundreds of years old – and they get better with time. If you bake daily, you can keep your starter at room temperature. If you bake weekly, I’d keep it in the fridge. You can also freeze starter if you bake very infrequently, but I find it does fine in the fridge so long as you feed it at least once a month. Simply refresh your starter according to the recipe – or with equal parts by weight of flour and water – and let it come back to life at room temperature.
• You might notice that your starter starts to smell a bit like acetone – this is completely normal. It may develop a grey liquid on top, which you can either pour off or stir back into the starter. When I refresh mine, I discard half of the original starter and add in fresh flour and water for the yeast to feed on.
• Sometimes, very rarely, a starter might get moldy. This is often due to being left at room temperature without feeding. If there is a lot of mold throughout the starter, I would discard it. But the odd bit is not always a problem. It is nearly impossible to kill a starter, unless you get salt or chemical products in it – so don’t fret! Often it is just a matter of feeding it over a few days and nursing it back to life.

Mandatory Items: You must make a sourdough starter and bread without the use of any added leavening (i.e. you must ferment a sourdough). You must use one of the bread recipes given, unless you are gluten-free or you have dietary requirements which require otherwise. You must make a recipe that showcases the bread using either one of the suggested recipes or a recipe of your choice.

Variations allowed: You can add whatever decorative flourishes you like to the recipes, though be wary of adding too much to the bread itself. Gluten-free and vegetarian bakers can adjust recipes as needed. Your showcasing recipe can be a recipe of your choice. Likewise, you can add any extra flavours you like to the suggested showcasing recipes.

Preparation time:
See the notes section for tips on fitting sourdough into your busy life!
French Country Bread: Wheat Leaven: 5 Days (no more than an hour active time), Bread: 9-11 Hours (no more than two hours active time)
Russian Rye Bread: Rye Leaven: 5 Days (no more than an hour active time), Bread: 16-22 Hours (no more than two hours active time)
Rice, Brazil Nut, and Flaxseed Bread: Rice Leaven: 5 Days (no more than an hour active time), Bread: 32 Hours (no more than two hours active time)
Welsh Rarebit: 20 minutes
Mushrooms on Toast: 30 minutes

Russian Rye Bread
Servings: 1 large loaf or 2 small loaves and excess rye starter to keep for further baking.

Rye Starter - Day 1:

Ingredients
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) (25 gm/1 oz) whole (dark) rye flour
1/4 cup (60 ml) water (at 104°F/40°C)
Total scant ½ cup (110 ml) (3 oz/85 gm)

Directions:
1. In a Tupperware or plastic container, mix the flour and water into a paste.
2. Set the lid on top gently, cover with a plastic bag, to prevent messes in case it grows more than expected!
3. Set somewhere warm (around 86°F/30°C if possible). I sometimes put mine on a windowsill near a radiator, but even if it’s not that warm, you’ll still get a starter going – it might just take longer. It should be a very sloppy, runny dough, which will bubble and grow as it ferments.

Rye Starter - Day 2:
Ingredients
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) (25 gm/1 oz) whole (dark) rye flour
1/4 cup (60 ml) water (at 104°F/40°C)
scant 1/2 cup (110 ml) (3 oz/85 gm) starter from Day 1
Total scant 1 cup (220 ml) (6 oz/170 gm)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 1, cover, and return to its warm place.

Rye Starter - Day 3:
Ingredients
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) (25 gm/1 oz) whole (dark) rye flour
1/4 cup (60 ml) water (at 104°F/40°C)
scant 1 cup (220 ml) (6 oz/170 gm) starter from Day 2
Total 1 cup plus 6 tablespoons (330 ml) (9 oz/255 gm)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 2, cover, and return to its warm place. If you notice it has a grey liquid on top, just stir this back in and continue as normal.

Rye Starter - Day 4:
Ingredients
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) (25 gm/1 oz) whole (dark) rye flour
1/4 cup (60 ml) water (at 104°F/40°C)
1 cup plus 6 tablespoons (330 ml) (255 gm/9 oz) starter from Day 3
Total about 1¾ cups (440 ml) (12 oz/340 gm)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 3, cover, and return to its warm place. At this point it should be bubbling and smell yeasty. If not, repeat this process for a further day or so until it is!

Russian Rye Bread - Step 1: Production Sourdough
Ingredients
1/4 cup less 2 teaspoons (50 ml) (50 gm/1 ¾ oz) rye leaven (starter)
1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (250 ml) (150 gm/5 ⅓ oz) whole (dark) rye flour
1 1/4 cups (300 ml) (300 gm/10 ½ oz) water
Total 2½ cup (600 ml) (500 gm/17½ oz/1 lb 1½ oz)

Directions:
1. Mix everything into a sloppy dough. Cover and set aside for 12-24 hours, until bubbling. Set aside the remaining starter for further loaves – see the Notes section for tips!

Russian Rye Bread - Step 2: Final Dough
Ingredients
2 cups (480 ml) (440 gm/15 ½ oz) production sourdough (this should leave some (½ cup) to become your next loaf of bread!)
2 1/3 cups (560 ml) (330 gm/11 ⅔ oz) rye flour (light or whole)
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (5 gm/.2 oz) sea salt or ½ teaspoon (2½ ml) (2½ gm/.1 oz) table salt
3/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons (200 ml) (200 gm/7 oz) water (at 104°F/40°C)
Total 5 cups plus 3 tablespoons (1245 ml) (975 gm/2 lb 2⅓ oz)

Directions:
1. Mix all the ingredients together to form a soft dough. With wet hands, scoop the dough up and put it in a well-greased loaf tin.
2. Put the tin inside a large plastic bag, blow it up, and seal it. This should make a good little dome for your bread to proof inside. Set aside somewhere room temperature to warm.
3. The dough should be ready to bake with in anywhere between 2-8 hours, depending on how warm it is. I proof mine by a sunny window in about 4 hours. If the dough was halfway up the tin when you started, it will be ready when it reaches the top (i.e. almost doubles in size).
4. Preheat the oven to very hot 470°F/240°C/gas mark 9. For a large loaf, bake for 50-60 minutes, reducing the temperature to moderately hot 400°F/200°C/gas mark 6 after about 10-15 minutes. If baking in small loaf tins, bake for 35-45 minutes, reducing the temperature after 10 minutes. If you are unsure about whether it is done, give it a few minutes longer – it is a very wet dough, so the extra time won’t hurt.
5. Leave to cool on a cooling rack, and rest the loaf for a day before eating it.

French Country Bread
Servings: 1 large loaf plus extra wheat starter for further baking

Wheat Starter - Day 1:
Ingredients
4 1/2 tablespoons (70 ml) (40 gm/1 ½ oz) stoneground breadmaking whole-wheat or graham flour
3 tablespoons (45 ml) water
Total scant ½ cup (115 ml) (3 oz/85 gm)

Directions:
1. In a Tupperware or plastic container, mix the flour and water into a paste.
2. Set the lid on top gently, cover with a plastic bag, to prevent messes in case it grows more than expected!
3. Set somewhere warm (around 86 F if possible). I sometimes put mine on a windowsill near a radiator, but even if it’s not that warm, you’ll still get a starter going – it might just take longer.

Wheat Starter - Day 2:
Ingredients
4 1/2 tablespoons (70 ml) (40 gm/1 ½ oz) stoneground breadmaking whole-wheat or graham flour
3 tablespoons (45 ml) water
scant 1/2 cup (115 ml) (3 oz/85 gm) starter from Day 1
Total scant cup (230 ml) (6 oz/170 gm)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 1, cover, and return to its warm place.

Wheat Starter - Day 3:
Ingredients
4 1/2 tablespoons (70 ml) (40 gm/1 ½ oz) stoneground breadmaking whole-wheat or graham flour
4 teaspoons (20 ml) water
scant 1 cup (230 ml) (6 oz/170 gm) starter from Day 2
Total 1⅓ cup (320 ml) (230 gm/8-1/10 oz)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 2, cover, and return to its warm place.

Wheat Starter - Day 4:
Ingredients
3/4 cup plus 1½ tablespoons (205 ml) (120 gm/4 ¼ oz) unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup less 4 teaspoons (100 ml) water
1⅓ cup (320 ml) (230 gm/8 oz) starter from Day 3
Total scant 2⅔ cup (625 ml) (440 gm/15½ oz)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 3, cover, and return to its warm place. At this point it should be bubbling and smell yeasty. If not, repeat this process for a further day or so until it is!

French Country Bread
Stage 1: Refreshing the leaven
Ingredients
1 cup less 1 tablespoon (225 ml) (160 gm/5 ⅔ oz) wheat Leaven Starter
6 tablespoons less 1 teaspoon (85 ml) (50 gm/1¾ oz) stoneground bread making whole-wheat or graham flour
1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (250 ml) (150 gm/5 ⅓ oz) unbleached all purpose flour
1/2 cup (120 ml) water
Production Leaven Total 2¾ cups plus 4 teaspoons (680 ml) (480 gm /1 lb 1 oz)

Directions:
1. Mix everything into a sloppy dough. It may be fairly stiff at this stage. Cover and set aside for 4 hours, until bubbling and expanded slightly.

French Country Bread
Stage 2: Making the final dough
Ingredients
3/4 cup less 1 teaspoon (175 ml) (100 gm/3 ½ oz) stoneground breadmaking whole-wheat or graham flour, plus more for dusting
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (510 ml) (300gm/10 ½ oz) unbleached all-purpose flour
1¼ teaspoons (7½ ml) (7 gm/¼ oz) sea salt or ⅔ teaspoon (3⅓ ml) (3 gm/⅛ oz) table salt
1 ¼ cups (300 ml) water
1 ¾ cups (425 ml) (300 gm/10 ½ oz) production leaven – this should leave some (1 cup) for your next loaf.
Total 6 cups less 2 tablespoons 1415 ml (1007 gm/35 ½ oz/2 lb 3½ oz)

Directions:
1. Mix the dough with all the ingredients except the production leaven. It will be a soft dough.
2. Knead on an UNFLOURED surface for about 8-10 minutes, getting the tips of your fingers wet if you need to. You can use dough scrapers to stretch and fold the dough at this stage, or air knead if you prefer. Basically, you want to stretch the dough and fold it over itself repeatedly until you have a smoother, more elastic dough.
See my demonstration here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqS3raEGdwk
3. Smooth your dough into a circle, then scoop your production leaven into the centre. You want to fold the edges of the dough up to incorporate the leaven, but this might be a messy process. Knead for a couple minutes until the leaven is fully incorporated in the dough. See my demonstration here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPO97R4iO4U
4. Spread some water on a clean bit of your work surface and lay the dough on top. Cover with an upturned bowl, lining the rim of the bowl with a bit of water. Leave for an hour, so that the gluten can develop and the yeasts can begin to aerate the dough.
5. Once your dough has rested, you can begin to stretch and fold it. Using wet hands and a dough scraper, stretch the dough away from you as far as you can without breaking it and fold it back in on itself. Repeat this in each direction, to the right, towards you, and to the left. This will help create a more ‘vertical’ dough, ready for proofing. See my demonstration here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDoJRCMfclE
6. Heavily flour a banneton/proofing basket with whole wheat flour and rest your dough, seam side up, in the basket. Put the basket in a large plastic bag, inflate it, and seal it. Set aside somewhere warm for 3-5 hours, or until it has expanded a fair bit. It is ready to bake when the dough responds to a gently poke by slowly pressing back to shape.
7. Preheat the oven to hot 425°F/220°C/gas mark 7. Line a baking sheet with parchment, then carefully invert the dough onto the sheet. I like to put the baking sheet on top of the basket, then gently flip it over so as to disturb the dough as little as possible. Make 2-3 cuts on top of the loaf and bake for 40-50 minutes, reducing the temperature to moderately hot 400°F/200°C/gas mark 6 after 10 minutes.
8. Cool on a cooling rack.

Rice, Brazil Nut, and Flaxseed Dough
Servings: 1 small loaf plus extra rice starter for further baking

Rice Starter - Day 1:
Ingredients
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) (30 gm/1 oz) brown rice flour
3 tablespoons less 1 teaspoon (40 ml) water (86°F/30°C)
Total 6 tablespoons (90 ml) (70 gm/2½ oz)

Directions:
1. 1. In a Tupperware or plastic container, mix the flour and water into a paste.
2. Set the lid on top gently, cover with a plastic bag, to prevent messes in case it grows more than expected!
3. Set somewhere warm (around 86°F/30°C if possible). I sometimes put mine on a windowsill near a radiator, but even if it’s not that warm, you’ll still get a starter going – it might just take longer.

Rice Starter - Day 2:
Ingredients
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) (30 gm/1 oz) brown rice flour
3 tablespoons less 1 teaspoon (40 ml) water (86°F/30°C)
6 tablespoons (90 ml) (70 gm/2½ oz) starter from Day 1
Total ¾ cup (180 ml) (140 gm/5 oz)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 1, cover, and return to its warm place.

Rice Starter - Day 3:
Ingredients
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) (30 gm/1 oz) brown rice flour
3 tablespoons less 1 teaspoon (40 ml) water (86°F/30°C)
¾ cup (180 ml) (140 gm/5 oz) starter from Day 2
Total 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (270 ml) (210 gm/7½ oz)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 2, cover, and return to its warm place.

Rice Starter - Day 4:
Ingredients
5 tablespoons (75 ml) (45 gm/1⅔ oz) brown rice flour
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) water (at 86°F/30°C)
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (270 ml) (210 gm/7 ½ oz) starter from Day 3
Total scant 1 2/3 cups (395 ml) (305 gm/10¾ oz)

Directions:
1. Stir the flour and water into the mixture from Day 3, cover, and return to its warm place. At this point it should be bubbling and smell yeasty. If not, repeat this process for a further day or so until it is!

Rice, Brazil Nut, and Flaxseed Bread
Stage 1: Soaking the flaxseeds
Ingredients
2 tablespoons (30 ml) (25 gm/1 oz) flaxseeds
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) water (cold)
Total ⅓ cup (80 ml) (75 gm/2 ⅔ oz)

Directions:
1. Rinse the seeds in fresh water, drain, then add them to the cold water. Cover and soak overnight at room temperature.

Rice, Brazil Nut, and Flaxseed Bread
Stage 2: Production Sourdough
Ingredients
6½ tablespoons (100 ml) (75 gm/2⅔ oz) rice sourdough starter
½ cup (120 ml) (70 gm/2 ½ oz) brown rice flour
1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon (85 ml) water (at 96°F/35°C)
Total 1¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon (305 ml) (230 gm/8 oz)

Directions:
1. Mix everything together, cover, and leave in warm place for 2-3 hours. It is ready when it has risen a bit and is bubbling.

Rice, Brazil Nut, and Flaxseed Bread
Stage 3: Final Dough
Ingredients
3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (195 ml) (150 gm/5 ⅓ oz) production sourdough
3 tablespoons (45 ml) (20 gm/¾ oz) cornstarch
1 tablespoon (15 ml) (10 gm/⅓ oz) buckwheat flour
1/2 cup (120 ml) (75 gm /2 ⅔ oz) brown rice flour
3 tablespoons (45 ml) (20 gm/¾ oz) tapioca flour
2 teaspoons (10 ml) (10 gm/ ⅓ oz) carob bean gum (optional)
2 teaspoons (10 ml) cider vinegar
1/3 cup (80 ml) (50 gm/1 ¾ oz) Brazil nuts, chopped (optional)
1 medium (50 gm) egg
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (5 gm/.2 oz) sea salt or ½ teaspoon (2½ ml) (2½ gm/.1 oz) table salt
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (35 ml) water (86°F/30°C)
⅓ cup (80 ml) (75 gm/2 ⅔ oz) soaked flaxseeds (from above)
Total 2¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons (690 ml) ( 510 gm/18 oz/1 lb 2 oz)
sunflower oil or olive oil for brushing

Directions:
1. Mix all the ingredients together to form a very soft dough. With wet hands, pick up the dough and smooth it like clay on a potter’s wheel (shaping it into a round, smooth ball with your hands). Drop the mixture into a well-greased small loaf tin.
2. Cover with a plastic bag, inflate, and seal. Set aside somewhere warm for up to 5 hours, or until the loaf has expanded most of the way up the tin.
3. Brush the top of the loaf carefully with sunflower or olive oil. This helps it to brown in the oven.
4. Preheat your oven to moderately hot 410°F/210°C/gas mark 6 and bake the loaf for 30 minutes. It is done when it shrinks away from the sides of the pan a bit, or if a skewer inserted comes out clean.

Garlic and Oregano Roasted Mushrooms and Pancetta on Toasted Sourdough
Servings: 4

Ingredients
4 large or 8 medium field mushrooms, sliced
2 red onions, peeled and cut into wedges
2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
4 sprigs oregano, leaves only
100 gm (3 ½ oz) pancetta, cubed (optional)
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil
4 slices sourdough bread
butter, for spreading
freshly ground black pepper
sea salt

Directions:
1. Preheat the oven to moderately hot 400°F/200°C/gas mark 6. Place the mushrooms on an oiled baking sheet, with onion wedges scattered beneath them. Sprinkle over the garlic, oregano, and pancetta, drizzle with olive oil and season with black pepper and sea salt. Roast for 25 minutes until the mushrooms are tender.
2. Toast your bread in the toaster. Butter the toast, and then pile your mushroom mixture on top.

A Twist: Instead of roasting your mushrooms, you can also sauté them in a pan and, just before serving, stir in a dash of cream for a rich, warm treat!

Welsh Rarebit (Cheese on Toast)
Servings: 4

Ingredients
½ cup (120 ml ) milk
3 tablespoons (45 ml) pale ale (optional)
2 tablespoons (30 ml) (30 gm/1 oz) butter
3 tablespoons (45 ml) (30 gm/1 oz) plain white flour
2 cups (480 ml) (150 gm/5 ⅓ oz) mature cheddar, grated
2 teaspoons (10 ml) Worcestershire sauce (not vegetarian - optional)
1 egg yolk
2 tablespoons (30 ml) grainy mustard
4 thick slices bread

Directions:
1. Preheat the grill/broiler. Warm the milk and ale in a saucepan.
2. Melt the butter in another pan, then add the flour and stir for 2 minutes. Whisk in the hot milk mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and smooth.
3. Remove the sauce from the heat, and beat in the cheese, Worcestershire sauce, egg yolk, and grainy mustard.
4. Toast the bread under the grill.
5. Spread over the cheese mixture and grill/broil until golden brown and bubbly.

Notes: Guinness is a good alternative to ale. If you like ketchup on your cheese-on-toast, spread a bit on the toast before spreading over the cheese mixture! The cheese mixture can be made in advance and stored in the fridge.

mince pie ice cream with candied oranges.

2011-12-06T15:11:00.000-08:00

For weeks now, I've been plagued by Sainsburys adverts extolling the joys of mince pie ice cream. Being neither in the UK nor in possession of a machine that would enable ice cream to be shipped transatlantically, I've sat forlorn with thoughts of mince pie bits in cloud-like vanilla ice cream dancing in my head.

I caved tonight. I went to the shop, bought a large tub of vanilla ice cream, and proceeded to mash up two shopbought mince pies. I mixed these tiny foods-of-the-gods with the aforementioned frozen dessert to form the ultimate holiday pudding: the elusive mince pie ice cream. It tastes of alcohol and spice, is dappled with fruit and pie crust - in other words, perfect. A bit cold on a winter night, yes, but perfect.

I had made a batch of candied orange slices earlier in the week, perfect for adding a citrus sweetness to spicy mouthfuls of ice cream. The one benefit of making it all myself? It's probably twenty times better than Sainsburys', and comes free from obnoxious endorsements by Jamie Oliver.

*****
Mince Pie Ice Cream
1 pint tub vanilla ice cream
2 small mince pies, chopped into 1 cm pieces

1. Mix together. Enjoy.

Candied Oranges

1 orange, finely sliced into 1/2 cm thick slices
1 cup sugar, plus more for dusting
1/4 cup water

1. Bring your sugar and water to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. 2. Add in your orange slices and simmer on low for an hour. 3. Let cool in the syrup, then remove each slice and dust on both sides with sugar. 4. Leave to dry on a sheet of parchment for 24 hours.

winter 'shakshuka'.

2011-12-02T10:45:00.000-08:00

I've been in Toronto now for three months and there is one thing, in particular, I'm happy about: brunch. I'd almost forgotten how much Canadians love brunch. My undergraduate years were punctuated by pretty serious brunch outings - even, at one point, a brunch crawl - and come the weekend, where in London we'd gather in the evening for drinks, my friends here are all rounded up by 11 a.m. for brunch.

Not to say brunch doesn't exist in London. It most certainly does - and this week I've been thinking a bit too much about one particular brunch place. The stark whiteness of Ottolenghi, popping with pomegranate-seed studded salads, clouds of meringue, and bursting with a snaking queue of hungry diners. I've been thinking about Ottolenghi's Shakshuka. Who wouldn't? Hot, tangy tomato, peppers, onions, soft egg, do-it-yourself toast.

But it's December and I'm on another continent. I've stared at the shakshuka picture in Plenty for far too long. And this being my first day of relative freedom before classes start again in January, I thought I'd make myself some. But there aren't peppers to be had. Nor fresh tomatoes.

This winter 'shakshuka' is filled out with crescents of spaghetti squash, thyme, tinned tomatoes, and red onion. A bit of chili, cumin, and a spoonful of sugar. Eggs cooked, ever so quickly - in a departure from traditional stove top cooking - under the grill. With the last bits of this week's bread. So good I could almost cope with the fact that I finished my last spoonfuls of Monmouth Coffee this morning. But that's another story...

*****

Winter "Shakshuka"
Serves one, increase as needed.

1/2 red onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
6 1/2-cm thick slices of squash, sliced horizontally across the squash
1 tbsp. cumin seeds
a pinch chili flakes
a few threads of saffron
1 cup tinned tomatoes
1 tsp. muscovado sugar
2 tbsp. water
2 eggs
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. In an oven proof skillet (or in a frying pan, ready to be dished out into individual overproof dishes), warm some olive oil and fry your onions and garlic. 2. After a minute or so, toss in your squash, and continue to fry until just tender. Toss in your spices and pour over your tomatos. 3. Bring to a simmer, then season with sugar, salt, and pepper. Cook for five minutes, or until slightly reduced. 4. Preheat your grill in the meantime. 5. Remove from heat, and make two small wells for your eggs. Crack your eggs into the wells, season with salt and pepper, then pop under the grill for five minutes, or until just set.

getting a little daring... whole baked romanesco with tomatoes and olives.

2011-12-01T21:02:00.000-08:00

It's December. I've been waiting for December for exactly 11 months now. I've spent 11 months thinking about December. Planning. Practicing. Being pretty damn nervous. I'm hosting the December Daring Bakers Challenge. Thousands of bakers around the world are going to be baking with my guidance this month - which is terrifying. I've got term papers to write, but I'll do all of that with the glint of the Daring Bakers forums peaking behind Microsoft Word, so that I can answer as many questions as possible. It will take up a lot of my head space over the next weeks, as if it already hasn't. (It has.)

But in a lovely departure from such organised pursuits, my friend David recently suggested we form our own baking club of two - with a game entitled "Make Me Jealous". It involves attaching photos and recipes of recent dishes to our emails, in an effort to make one another jealous. He started with pork pies. I've spent weeks contemplating the possibility of vegetarian pork pies - I need to figure it out. It must be possible. Obviously, his pork pies made me, blushing vegetarian that I am, very, very jealous.

I countered him with a whole baked romanesco with rye bread. Tucked whole into my Le Creuset, half submerged in a tomato, olive, and caper sauce. Vaguely Jamie Oliver (who does a baked cauliflower similarly), but a bit more flash. This vegetable is lime green. And conical. And stunning.

It helps that it is a whole romanesco. I didn't have to cook for two days - that's how substantial this dish is. It would easily feed two with leftovers. And it's lovely and warm on a cold winter's day. And as it just started snowing here, warm dishes are all I can think of. I don't know what's next in the Make Me Jealous game - I'd better get baking.

*****

Whole Baked Romanesco
1 onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
300 ml. tomato passata
100 ml. water
1 tbsp. capers, chopped
3 tbsp. black olives, pitted and chopped
1 sprig rosemary
4-5 sprigs thyme
1 whole romanesco cauliflower/broccoli (which is it, anyway?), stalk trimmed
olive oil
salt and pepper

1. In a large casserole with a lid, heat your olive oil and fry off your onion and garlic until soft, about five minutes. 2. Stir in your passata, water, capers, and olives, then bring to a simmer. 3. Add your herbs then season to taste. 4. Rest your romanesco in the sauce, season a bit more and drizzle with oil. Cover and leave to 'bake' on the stove for about an hour over medium-low heat. You might like to spoon some sauce over it as it cooks - up to you. Serve be spooning off segments of the romanesco, covered in the sauce.

walnut miso with oyster mushrooms and udon.

2011-11-08T17:24:00.000-08:00

I've mentioned missing Britain and my favourite London haunts, so, once again, I've been searching in the kitchen for a solution. This time it takes the shape of my absolute favourite dish in my absolute favourite restaurant, the Kinoko Hiya Atsu (mushrooms, udon, broth, and walnut miso) at Koya. I've written about this dish a few times. The walnut miso has become the best possible reason for living, no word of a lie.

I know that at Koya they make the udon the traditional way, kneading by foot, so I added that to one of my reading breaks today. I used the recipe given here and was delighted by how simple the whole project was. I will be making them again.

I brought together a stock with vegetable broth and miso, finely sliced cabbage, oyster mushrooms, and enoki mushrooms. Light, plain, and simple, this broth is the perfect foil for the main object of my affection, the walnut miso.

God. I can't even come up with words for it. I am addicted to the stuff. Salty, sweet, full of umami flavour from the miso and crunch from the walnuts. And, as I discovered today, so damn easy to make. You can eat it on its own (strong!), in small bites with your noodles, or stirred into your soup. I do all three.

My own personal Koya, halfway across the world and in my own home? I'm delighted.

*****
Walnut Miso
1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted and chopped
2 heaped tbsp. rice miso paste
1/2 tsp. umeboshi vinegar
1/2 tsp. tamari
1 heaped tbsp. unrefined sugar
1 tsp. water

1. Blitz all the ingredients in the blender. Scoop into a jar and keep sealed up in the fridge for up to a week.

Oyster Mushrooms with Udon
4 cups vegetable stock
1 tbsp. rice miso paste
2 cups savoy cabbage, shredded
2 large oyster mushrooms, finely sliced
a handful enoki mushrooms, cut in half horizontally
2 spring onions, chopped
1 portion (about 2 cups) udon noodles, cooked, rinsed, and drained

1. Bring your stock and miso paste to a boil. Cook for about ten minutes, then season to taste. 2. Add your cabbage and oyster mushrooms and cook for a further five minutes, until tender. 3. Add in your enoki mushrooms, half your spring onions, and your cooked udon. Cook until just warmed, then serve with the remainder of your spring onions and a spoonful of walnut miso on the side.

red wine, mushroom, and brown rice pie.

2011-11-07T21:28:00.000-08:00

Leftover pie, more accurately.

I also contemplated titling this post "Treating Homesickness: with pie!" but thought better of it. Wouldn't help with the search engines and whatnot, but might convey the point better.

Because, you see, I've been thinking a lot about what I can eat to make myself miss London slightly less. I think it's a fruitless project - I continue to miss it despite warming to Toronto daily, which tells me something about the steadfastness of my love for it. I can't be there right now (for a lengthy list of reasons) and quite frankly, much as I'm unwilling to admit it, don't really think I should be there right now. For now, Toronto is where I lay my head.

BUT. And there is always a but. That doesn't mean I don't still constantly want good tea, dippy eggs, beans on toast, Marmite, Ginger and White lattes, decent curry, amazing fine dining, and a nice pub in my life. I admit to watching Jamie Oliver's newest series, Jamie's Great Britain, and feeling a twinge of identification when he said that, for people who leave the places they love, food is often the strongest connection.

So in between chapters of Andrew Motion's biography of Keats (very good, incidentally - I even cried at the end), I knocked up some rough puff and set a mushroom and brown rice stew a-bubbling. Some chapters later, I was tucking into this very lovely pie, rich with whatever vegetables I happened to have left in the fridge - a spare carrot, half an onion, five tiny radishes (I love me a cooked radish), some frozen peas, mushrooms, and a scoop of brown rice. With half a bottle of red wine left from Bonfire Night, I knocked together a gravy with a teaspoon of soy sauce and water (!) instead of stock. Very successful, all things considered.

*****

1/2 onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
1 cup/a handful field mushrooms, chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
a few radishes, roughly chopped
2 sprigs fresh oregano
1 tbsp. plain flour
3/4 cup red wine
1/2 cup water
1 Tbsp. tamari
1/2 cup frozen peas
1/2 cup brown rice, cooked
salt and pepper
olive oil

plus 1/2 quantity rough puff pastry, as given here.

1. In a large skillet, fry your onions and garlic in a bit of oil until just softened. Add in your mushrooms and carrots, and continue to cook until the mushrooms are reduced a bit. 2. Add in your radishes and oregano, and stir in your plain flour. Pour in your wine and reduce, stirring all the while, before adding your water and tamari. Bring to a gently simmer. Cook for ten minutes or so on medium heat. 3. Add your peas and rice, season to taste, and cook for a few minutes more. Set aside to cool a bit before turning out into a pie dish. 4. Top your dish with a round (about the thickness of a pound coin) of rough puff, cut a few vents in the top, and brush with milk. Sprinkle with a bit of sea salt (this gives the pastry a nice crackly finish) and bake at 400 F (200C) for thirty minutes, or until nice and golden.

rolling out, rolling up: povitica.

2011-10-27T20:33:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, october.

I'd never actually heard of povitica before this month. I couldn't even keep track of whether it was called potivica or povitica, but I think I've now figured it out. A sweet bread filled with nuts and cocoa-cinnamon spice, the dough in povitica is rolled to paper thinness, then rolled up to reveal a distinct swirl upon slicing.

I found the recipe fairly straight-forward, and the bread itself kept nicely for a few days, which meant a great go-to snack with coffee during the week. I liked it best warm, when the buttery, coffee glaze was still slick, but my flatmate ate it cold, in thin slices, all week long. So that's a good sign.

Best of all, I think, was the method. The dough is rolled out on a sheet (I used a big pillowcase), which helps to prevent it sticking. When working with sticky doughs, I'm not sure I'll ever go back to working on the countertop. The sheet made it so unbelievably simple and, for me, it seemed like a really satisfying thing to do. Can't quite explain why, but I think it's to do with my love of linens. And flour. Just try it.

The Daring Baker’s October 2011 challenge was Povitica, hosted by Jenni of The
Gingered Whisk. Povitica is a traditional Eastern European Dessert Bread that is as lovely to look at
as it is to eat!

*****

Quarter Batch Dough Ingredients (Makes one loaf 1.25 lbs/565 grams)
To activate the Yeast:
½ Teaspoon (2½ ml/2¼ gm) Sugar
¼ Teaspoon (1¼ ml/¾ gm) All-Purpose (Plain) Flour
2 Tablespoons (30 ml) Warm Water
1½ Teaspoons (7½ ml/3½ gm/0.125 oz/½ sachet) Dry Yeast

Dough:
½ Cup (120 ml) Whole Milk
3 Tablespoons (45 ml/43 gm/1½ oz) Sugar
¾ Teaspoon (3¾ ml/9 gm/0.17 oz) Table Salt
1 Large Egg
1 tablespoon (30 ml/30 gm/¼ stick/1 oz) Unsalted Butter, melted
2 cups (480 ml/280 gm/10 oz/0.62 lb) All-Purpose Flour, measure first then sift, divided

Topping:
2 Tablespoons (30 ml) Cold STRONG Coffee
1½ Teaspoons (7½ ml/7 gm/¼ oz) Granulated Sugar
Melted Butter

Quarter Batch Filling Ingredients (enough filling for one loaf)
1¾ Cups (420 ml/280 gm/10 oz) Ground English Walnuts
¼ Cup (60 ml) Whole Milk
¼ Cup (60 ml/58 gm/½ stick/2 oz) Unsalted Butter
1 Egg Yolk From A Large Egg, Beaten
¼ Teaspoon (1¼ ml) Pure Vanilla Extract
½ Cup (120 ml/115 gm/4 oz) Sugar
¼ Teaspoon (1¼ ml/1 gm) Unsweetened Cocoa Powder
¼ Teaspoon (1¼ ml/¾ gm) Cinnamon

To Activate Yeast:
1. In a small bowl, stir 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon flour, and the yeast into ½ cup warm water and
cover with plastic wrap.
2. Allow to stand for 5 minutes

To Make the Dough:
3. In a medium saucepan, heat the milk up to just below
boiling (about 180°F/82°C), stirring constantly so that a
film does not form on the top of the milk. You want it hot
enough to scald you, but not boiling. Allow to cool
slightly, until it is about 110°F/43°C.
4. In a large bowl, mix the scalded milk, ¾ cup (180 gm/170
gm/6 oz) sugar, and the salt until combined.
5. Add the beaten eggs, yeast mixture, melted butter, and 2
cups (480 ml/280 gm/10 oz) of flour.
6. Blend thoroughly and slowly add remaining flour, mixing well until the dough starts to clean the bowl.
7. Turn dough out onto floured surface and knead, gradually adding flour a little at a time, until
smooth and does not stick. Note: I did not use all 8 cups of flour
8. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces (they will each weight about 1.25 pounds/565 grams)
9. Place dough in 4 lightly oiled bowls, cover loosely with a layer of plastic wrap and then a
kitchen towel and let rise an hour and a half in a warm place, until doubled in size.

To Make the Filling:
10. In a large bowl mix together the ground walnuts, sugar, cinnamon and cocoa.
11. Heat the milk and butter to boiling.
12. Pour the liquid over the nut/sugar mixture.
13. Add the eggs and vanilla and mix thoroughly.
14. Allow to stand at room temperature until ready to be spread on the dough.
15. If the mixture thickens, add a small amount of warm milk.

To Roll and Assemble the Dough:
16. Spread a clean sheet or cloth over your entire table so that it is covered.
17. Sprinkle with a couple of tablespoons to a handful of flour (use flour sparingly)
18. Place the dough on the sheet and roll the dough out with a rolling pin, starting in the middle
and working your way out, until it measures roughly 10-12 inches (25½ cm by 30½ cm) in
diameter.
19. Spoon 1 to 1.5 teaspoons (5ml to 7 ½ ml/4 gm to 7 gm) of melted butter on top.
20. Using the tops of your hands, stretch dough out from the center until the dough is thin and
uniformly opaque. You can also use your rolling pin, if you prefer.
21. As you work, continually pick up the dough from the table, not only to help in stretching it
out, but also to make sure that it isn’t sticking.
22. When you think it the dough is thin enough, try to get it a little thinner. It should be so thin
that you can see the color and perhaps the pattern of the sheet underneath.
23. Spoon filling (see below for recipe) evenly over dough until covered.
24. Lift the edge of the cloth and gently roll the dough like a jelly roll.
25. Once the dough is rolled up into a rope, gently lift it up and place it into a greased loaf pan in
the shape of a “U”, with the ends meeting in the middle. You want to coil the dough around
itself, as this will give the dough its characteristic look when sliced.
26. Repeat with remaining three loaves, coiling each rope of dough in its own loaf pan.
27. Brush the top of each loaf with a mixture of ½ cup (120 ml) of cold STRONG coffee and 2
tablespoons (30ml/28 gm/1 oz) of sugar. If you prefer, you can also use egg whites in place of
this.
28. Cover pans lightly will plastic wrap and allow
to rest for approximately 15 minutes.
29. Preheat oven to moderate 350°F/180°C/gas
mark 4.
30. Remove plastic wrap from dough and place
into the preheated oven and bake for
approximately 15 minutes.
31. Turn down the oven temperature to slow
300°F/150°C/gas mark 2 and bake for an
additional 45 minutes, or until done.
32. Remove bread from oven and brush with
melted butter.
33. Check the bread every 30 minutes to ensure
that the bread is not getting too brown. You
may cover the loaves with a sheet of
aluminum foil if you need to.
34. Remove from the oven and allow to cool on
a wire rack for 20-30 minutes.
35. It is recommended that the best way to cut
Povitica loaves into slices is by turning the
loaf upside down and slicing with a serrated
knife.

la cucina povera - broccoli, tofu, and ginger with umeboshi.

2011-10-23T12:50:00.000-07:00

The other night, leaning over a bowl of steaming polenta and peas, I said to my flatmate, "You'll know I'm a poor student when I can only afford to eat polenta." She laughed and suggested that I could also, despite my student wages, afford to eat lentils and most other items sold in bulk. Grains, beans, pulses. Anything but ramen.

Cut to this morning, when I opened the cupboards and realised I didn't have any bread. Neither did I have cereal. Polenta it was, and my concerns about a polenta-only diet heightened ever so slightly.

Don't get me wrong - I'm not in the depths of student poverty. I'm merely subject to the tides of university funding, and it's nearing the end of the month. Come next weekend, I'll be eating truffles covered with gold. Well, perhaps not quite so well, but I won't be eating like a nineteenth century peasant.

Today's dinner was, therefore, all about foraging what I could from the depths of the kitchen. I had splurged earlier in the week and bought a lot of tofu. My flatmate had donated an abandoned broccoli to my cause, claiming that she didn't like vegetables anyway (!). I've been ill, so there's a lot of ginger laying around.

With plain rice, this might be the closest thing to simple pleasure. Spicy with chili, sour and salty with umeboshi vinegar, eaten in steaming great mouthfuls with hot rice. The tofu is cut into tiny pieces, giving the illusion that it goes further and creating more surface area to fry to a golden crisp. A worthwhile break from studying.

*****

1/2 block of firm tofu, in 1 cm cubes
1 head of broccoli, broken into small florets
1 spring onion, chopped
2 small chilies, minced
1 inch ginger, minced
2 tbsp. tamari or light soy sauce
2 tbsp. umeboshi vinegar
oil, for frying

1. Heat your oil over med-high heat and toss in your tofu. Allow to cook for a few minutes on each side, turning when golden. 2. Once your tofu is golden all over, toss in your broccoli and cover the pan, reducing the heat to medium and leaving to steam for 2-3 minutes. 3. Toss in your chilies, ginger, and spring onion, your tamari, and a splash of water. Cover again and leave until the broccoli is tender but still fairly crisp. 4. Remove from heat and sprinkle with umeboshi before serving.

finally unpacking.

2011-10-21T16:18:00.000-07:00

Just a quick update - my kitchenwares have finally arrived from the UK, so I'm just starting to get a proper kitchen today. Suffice it to say, I'm very, very excited. As I wrap up this month's Daring Bakers challenge and test recipes for December's challenge (my cookbooks have arrived and I'm in full swing!!), expect lots more from the kitchen.

That is, unless I get bogged down with PhD work. Fingers crossed.

sesame and spice noodle soup.

2011-10-18T14:03:00.000-07:00

Still nursing my cold (!), I'm quite happy to be eating a lot of soup. I've always been a lover of soup, especially soups with a bit more texture than your typical puréed variety. I like robust bean soups, mushrooms stews, spicy noodle soups.

I think it goes back, if I'm honest, to a strange love of noodle soup in my family. My mom and I used to cook up huge pots of the stuff, toss in some eggs and greens, and eat straight out of the pot. If the pot was too hot, we'd decant it into mixing bowls, then hunker down in front of the television. The steam from bubbling hot soup was almost overwhelming, but to this day I feel that it's one of the best things for cold weather or when you're feeling under the weather.

This soup is really quick, light, spicy, and fragrant. I threw in the only vegetables I had on hand - carrots, spring onion, oyster mushroom, tomato - and a single bunch of rice noodles. With a quick drizzle of sesame oil before serving, the otherwise light soup morphs into something nutty, rich, and so warming.

*****

4 cups vegetable stock
1 carrot, chopped
1/2 inch ginger, peeled and minced
1 tomato, quartered
1/2 cup oyster mushrooms, sliced
1 bunch (or a handful) rice noodles
2 eggs
1 tsp. chili flakes
1 tsp. tamari
1 tsp. umeboshi
a handful parsley, chopped
1 spring onion, chopped
sesame oil, for drizzling

1. Bring the vegetable stock to a boil and toss in your carrot. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about five minutes. 2. Toss in your ginger, tomato, mushroom, noodles, chili, tamari, and umeboshi, seasoning with salt if needed. Gently lower your eggs into the soup and continue to cook for about fifteen minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and the noodles are well cooked. 3. Serve in bowls with a bit of parsley and spring onion, and a very sparing drizzle of sesame oil.

carrot and ginger soup with honey - healing and procrastinating.

2011-10-17T14:15:00.000-07:00

I've come back from a brief trip back to London with what might be described as the worst cold of my life. Not the worst illness, really, but the worst common cold, in that it's come complete with fevers and has lasted for nearly a week now. Faced with a stack of reading for my classes this week, I wasn't feeling terribly enthusiastic.

But one of the perks of life as a doctoral student is that I really needn't worry too much about being ill - my job is to stay home all day, read a bit, write a bit, and generally stare into space. I've cultivated a routine of reading one text, watching something on 4oD, then maybe having a potter about the kitchen before going back to a bit more reading. Not exactly strenuous stuff. So in aid of recuperation I used one of those breaks to make this soup.

I wouldn't normally make carrot soup. It's kind of run of the mill and I am a bit sick of eating it, if I'm honest, but this one was exactly what I needed today. It's really bright with ginger and crisp carrot, a hint of spice from some chili, and a light bit of sweetness from honey. I threw parsley in because I was convinced it would help along the healing process - and because I really like parsley, but you can take it or leave it. Might also be nice with a bit of crouton or yogurt.

*****

1 onion, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced
5 large carrots or so, chopped
4 cups vegetable stock
a pinch of saffron
a pinch of dried chili
salt and pepper
olive oil
1 tsp. honey, for serving

1. Heat a bit of oil in your pot and fry off your onion, garlic, and ginger. Toss in your carrots, and continue to cook for about two minutes. 2. Pour over your stock, taking care to scrape any browned bits off the bottom of the pan, and bring to a simmer. Add your saffron and chili, season to taste, and simmer for about twenty minutes. 3. Once your carrots are quite soft, blend to a smooth consistency using a stick blender or transfer ladle by ladle to a blender. Reheat the pureed soup gently and serve with a drizzle of honey.

making croissants - making the kitchen my own.

2011-09-27T06:41:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, september.

I've been really busy this month. Really, really busy. Starting my PhD, moving into my new place, getting to know Toronto, and barely ever cooking. I simply haven't had the time - which is never an excuse I've used before, but these days seems to be a simple fact of life. After 500 pages of a reading a week, essays to write, classes to teach, I just haven't had the energy. I've been eating toast, basic pasta, and worst of all, whatever I can find on campus. It's not a great way to be.

So this month's Daring Bakers challenge was a bit of a blessing. Something I love, something that takes time, and something that would force me to make my new, tiny kitchen my own. It still feels a bit foreign - I miss the bright sunshine and long counters of my London kitchen, and I've even been a bit overwhelmed by the sheer size of the fridge (normal North American size, yes, but HUGE by British standards). But spending the weekend rolling, proofing, and baking certainly helped. And I ended up with enough croissants to munch on while getting back into essay writing and reading.

The recipe itself is dead simple - I added a couple more turns than the recipe called for, and my croissants came out lovely and fluffy. I couldn't have been happier with it, and as I plan and test recipes for the December challenge (EEK!), this certainly sets the bar pretty high.

The Daring Bakers go retro this month! Thanks to one of our very talented non-blogging members, Sarah, the Daring Bakers were challenged to make Croissants using a recipe from the Queen of French Cooking, none other than Julia Child!

*****
Ingredients
¼ oz (7 gm) of fresh yeast, or 1¼ teaspoon (6¼ ml/4 gm) of dry-active yeast (about ½ sachet)
3 tablespoons (45 ml) warm water (less than 100°F/38°C)
1 teaspoon (5 ml/4½ gm) sugar
1 3/4 cups (225 gm/½ lb) of strong plain flour (I used Polish all-purpose flour, which is 13% protein)
2 teaspoons (10 ml/9 gm) sugar
1½ teaspoon (7½ ml/9 gm) salt
½ cup (120 ml/¼ pint) milk (I am not sure if the fat content matters. I used 2%)
2 tablespoons (30 ml) tasteless oil (I used generic vegetable oil)
½ cup (120 ml/1 stick/115 gm/¼ lb) chilled, unsalted butter
1 egg, for egg wash

Directions:
1. Mix the yeast, warm water, and first teaspoon of sugar in a small bowl. Leave aside for the yeast and sugar to dissolve and the yeast to foam up a little.
2. Measure out the other ingredients
3. Heat the milk until tepid (either in the microwave or a saucepan), and dissolve in the salt and remaining sugar
4. Place the flour in a large bowl.
5. Add the oil, yeast mixture, and milk mixture to the flour
6. Mix all the ingredients together using the rubber spatula, just until all the flour is incorporated
7. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface, and let it rest a minute while you wash out the bowl
8. Knead the dough eight to ten times only. The best way is as Julia Child does it in the video (see below). It’s a little difficult to explain, but essentially involves smacking the dough on the counter (lots of fun if you are mad at someone) and removing it from the counter using the pastry scraper.
9. Place the dough back in the bowl, and place the bowl in the plastic bag
10. Leave the bowl at approximately 75°F/24°C for three hours, or until the dough has tripled in size.
11. After the dough has tripled in size, remove it gently from the bowl, pulling it away from the sides of the bowl with your fingertips.
12. Place the dough on a lightly floured board or countertop, and use your hands to press it out into a rectangle about 8 by 12 inches (20cm by 30cm).
13. Fold the dough rectangle in three, like a letter (fold the top third down, and then the bottom third up)
14. Place the dough letter back in the bowl, and the bowl back in the plastic bag.
15. Leave the dough to rise for another 1.5 hours, or until it has doubled in size. This second rise can be done overnight in the fridge
16. Place the double-risen dough onto a plate and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Place the plate in the fridge while you prepare the butter.
17. Once the dough has doubled, it’s time to incorporate the butter
18. Place the block of chilled butter on a chopping board.
19. Using the rolling pin, beat the butter down a little, till it is quite flat.
20. Use the heel of your hand to continue to spread the butter until it is smooth. You want the butter to stay cool, but spread easily.
21. Remove the dough from the fridge and place it on a lightly floured board or counter. Let it rest for a minute or two. (Photo 12)
22. Spread the dough using your hands into a rectangle about 14 by 8 inches (35 cm by 20 cm).
23. Remove the butter from the board, and place it on the top half of the dough rectangle
24. Spread the butter all across the top two-thirds of the dough rectangle, but keep it ¼ inch (6 mm) across from all the edges.
25. Fold the top third of the dough down, and the bottom third of the dough up.
26. Turn the dough package 90 degrees, so that the top flap is to your right (like a book).
27. Roll out the dough package (gently, so you don’t push the butter out of the dough) until it is again about 14 by 8 inches (35 cm by 20 cm).
28. Again, fold the top third down and the bottom third up.
29. Wrap the dough package in plastic wrap, and place it in the fridge for 2 hours.

30. After two hours have passed, take the dough out of the fridge and place it again on the lightly floured board or counter.
31. Tap the dough with the rolling pin, to deflate it a little
32. Let the dough rest for 8 to 10 minutes
33. Roll the dough package out till it is 14 by 8 inches (35 cm by 20 cm).
34. Fold in three, as before
35. Turn 90 degrees, and roll out again to 14 by 8 inches (35 cm by 20 cm).
36. Fold in three for the last time, wrap in plastic, and return the dough package to the fridge for two more hours (or overnight, with something heavy on top to stop it from rising)
37. It’s now time to cut the dough and shape the croissants
38. First, lightly butter your baking sheet so that it is ready
39. Take the dough out of the fridge and let it rest for ten minutes on the lightly floured board or counter
40. Roll the dough out into a 20 by 5 inch rectangle (51 cm by 12½ cm).
41. Cut the dough into two rectangles (each 10 by 5 inches (25½ cm by 12½ cm))
42. Place one of the rectangles in the fridge, to keep the butter cold
43. Roll the second rectangle out until it is 15 by 5 inches (38 cm by 12½ cm).
44. Cut the rectangle into three squares (each 5 by 5 inches (12½ cm by 12½ cm))
45. Place two of the squares in the fridge
46. The remaining square may have shrunk up a little bit in the meantime. Roll it out again till it is nearly square
47. Cut the square diagonally into two triangles.
48. Stretch the triangle out a little, so it is not a right-angle triangle, but more of an isosceles.
49. Starting at the wide end, roll the triangle up towards the point, and curve into a crescent shape.
50. Place the unbaked croissant on the baking sheet
51. Repeat the process with the remaining squares of dough, creating 12 croissants in total.
52. Leave the tray of croissants, covered lightly with plastic wrap, to rise for 1 hour
53. Preheat the oven to very hot 475°F/240°C/gas mark 9.
54. Mix the egg with a teaspoon of water
55. Spread the egg wash across the tops of the croissants.
56. Put the croissants in the oven for 12 to 15 minutes, until the tops are browned nicely
57. Take the croissants out of the oven, and place them on a rack to cool for 10 minutes before serving.

chocolates and children.

2011-09-02T16:36:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, august.

I must confess, I'm atrociously late posting this. But, best excuse of all, I was mid-move between the UK and Canada throughout the past week and have only remembered to do it now. Suffice it to say, I had a lot to do and have generally neglected the blog. But in addition to this, rest assured there are more London restaurant posts ready to go out once I receive photos for them (as my camera, alas, is pretty much dead).

For Daring Bakers in August, we were asked to work on our candy- and chocolate-making skills. I went for chocolate covered honeycombs, which really amounted to caramels, and peppermint creams covered in chocolate. And I had the lovely help of my two favourite girls, Daisy and Georgia, plus their good friend (also called) Georgia in making and eating these. What a delight!

The August 2011 Daring Bakers’ Challenge was hosted by Lisa of Parsley, Sage, Desserts and Line Drive and Mandy of What the Fruitcake?!. These two sugar mavens challenged us to make sinfully delicious candies! This was a special challenge for the Daring Bakers because the good folks at http://www.chocoley.com offered an amazing prize for the winner of the most creative and delicious candy!

*****

Truffles

Servings: Makes +- 30 truffles, recipe easily doubled or halved
For the best tasting truffles, a high quality chocolate is ideal, especially one that is 62% cacao or higher

Ingredients
1 ¾ cup (9 oz/250 gm) Dark/Bittersweet Chocolate, finely chopped
2/3 cup (5 oz / 160 ml) Double/Heavy Cream (36% - 48% butterfat)
OR
1 ¾ cup (9 oz/250 gm) Milk Chocolate, finely chopped
1/2 cup (4 oz / 120 ml) Double/Heavy Cream (36% - 48% butterfat)
OR
1 ¾ cup (9 oz/250 gm) White Chocolate, finely chopped
¼ cup (2 oz / 60 ml) Double/Heavy Cream (36% - 48% butterfat)

Flavor Ideas:

Add to taste (Approximately 1 teaspoon – 3 Tablespoons)
The amount of flavorings are dependent on either the recipe you use, the amount of chocolate and cream, and frankly, your own taste. Start by adding a teaspoon, try it, then add more to taste, up to as much as 3 tablespoons.

Various Spices (Chili Powder, Cardamom, Wasabi Paste or Powder, Ginger, Cinnamon etc.)
Instant Coffee Granules or Espresso
Matcha, Chai and Various Teas
Liqueurs (Amaretto, Chambord, Kahlua, Frangelico, Rum, Brandy, Vodka etc.)
Zests (Orange, Lemon, Lime etc.)
Herbs (Basil, Thyme, Mint, etc.)
Malted Milk Powders
Nut Pastes or Butters

Other Tips

- If you are using fresh or whole/solid flavorings such as fresh herbs, cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, vanilla pods etc... simmer it in the cream then remove from heat and let steep for an hour. After steeping, strain away solids, return the cream to a simmer, and proceed with recipe.
- When using liqueurs or alcohol to flavor, don’t add more than 3Tbsp for the given quantities in the recipe given. Too much alcohol can inhibit the ganache from setting properly.

Making the ganache

1. Finely chop or grate the chocolate
2. Place in a heatproof bowl
3. In a saucepan, heat cream until just about to boil (it will start bubbling around the edges of the pot)
4. Pour the cream over the chocolate
5. Gently stir the mixture until all the chocolate has melted and it is smooth
Tip: If you end up with pieces of chocolate that won’t melt, put the bowl over simmering water (but not touching the water) and stir gently until it’s all melted
Tip: Be careful if you do need to heat it over simmering water, if the mixture gets too hot it will split and you’ll end up with gooey chocolate swimming in oil, so don’t overheat the ganache, steam from a gentle simmer is all you need.
6. Stir in your desired flavorings

For rolled truffles

1. Allow the ganache to firm up in a container of choice, preferably deep rather than shallow
2. Using a teaspoon or melon baller, scoop up room temperature ganache
3. With gloved hands, roll the balls between your palms to round them off
4. Dip in tempered chocolate or roll in various ingredients like cocoa or chopped nuts as desired
Tip: If dipping in chocolate, it’s best to refrigerate the ganache balls before dipping so that they’re firm and don’t melt from the warm chocolate
Tip: For a thicker chocolate shell, dip once in tempered chocolate and allow to set. Then do a second dipping or smear a small amount of chocolate over the truffle and roll in desired ingredients
5. Place on parchment paper until set

Peppermint Cream for my truffles

Approx. 2 cups icing sugar
8 Tbsp. condensed milk
a few drops peppermint extract
a few drops green food colouring

1. Mix the icing sugar, milk, and extract to form a crumbly dough. 2. Knead in the food colouring, then shape into balls and chill before glazing with chocolate.

Sponge Candy (also called Honeycomb or Sea Foam candy)

Adapted from Christine Cushing’s Sponge Toffee Recipe
Full photo tutorial Here

Pieces of the sponge candy / honeycomb dipped into tempered dark chocolate and the end result

Ingredients
2½ cups (20oz/560gm) Granulated White Sugar
2/3 cup (160 ml) Light corn syrup
6 tablespoons (90 ml) Water
1 tablespoon (0.5 oz/ 15g) Baking Soda
2 teaspoons (10 ml) Vanilla extract
Vegetable oil for greasing pan

Directions:

1. Liberally grease a 10-inch round spring form cake pan with vegetable oil. Trace the bottom of the pan on a piece of parchment paper. Line the bottom of the pan with the parchment paper circle. Line the sides of the pan with a parchment paper so that the parchment paper creates a collar that sits 1 to 2-inches above the pan. Liberally grease the parchment paper.
2. In a deep medium saucepan add sugar, corn syrup, water, and vanilla. Over medium-high heat bring the mixture to a boil (without stirring) and cook until hard crack stage, i.e. until temperature reads 285°F / 140°C on a candy thermometer (if using light corn syrup, it will be light amber, if using dark corn syrup it will be the color of maple syrup). This should take about 10 minutes. If sugar crystals form on the sides of the pan during the cooking process, brush the sides of the pan with a clean pastry brush dipped in water.
3. Remove from heat. Working quickly, add the baking soda and quickly blend to incorporate the soda into the sugar mixture, about 5 seconds. The mixture will bubble up when you add the baking soda. Be very careful not to touch the hot mixture.
4. Immediately pour the hot toffee into the prepared pan. Let set completely before touching. Cut into pieces. It makes a huge mess. But the messy little crumbs can be saved to top ice cream. Leave candy as is and enjoy, or dip pieces in tempered chocolate and let set.

the definitive list, 7: manna.

2011-08-26T13:16:00.000-07:00

Manna
4 Erskine Road,
London, NW3 3AJ

Being vegetarian, the first thing I sought out upon moving to London was a decent vegetarian restaurant. And I was very lucky - for the first and best friend I've made since moving here is arguably an expert in such things! I remember calling her up, well past 7 p.m. one evening, and asking for her vegetarian restaurant tips - and she sent me to Manna. I've been back often since, and see it as a quiet standby for absolutely lovely food.

Tucked into a quiet street in Primrose Hill, Manna is one of London's oldest vegetarian restaurants. It has a good reputation largely because the food is very consistent - and wouldn't disappoint a meat-eater - and because they've really worked on their credentials. The kitchen is certified organic. Their menu offers a lot of gluten-free and vegan options. They sell their wheat-free muffins and sweets in nearby shops. Probably the only thing missing is a selection of sugar-free puddings, though they sometimes have them on special.

So my lovely friend and I popped in for a last-minute Sunday supper, finding the restaurant fairly quiet - you'll normally need a booking - and sat ourselves at a quiet table in the back. I've always loved the wallpaper in the dining room, with its silhouetted birds on branches climbing up beige walls. It feels a bit like a cozy living room.

On this most recent visit, I will say the service was a bit haphazard. Our server seemed unduly overwhelmed, and they were playing some depressing Neil Young on repeat for the whole of our visit. But the food might actually be good enough to overlook this.

The menu covers some staples - pumpkin seed and fennel sausages perched atop mash, meatless meatballs with spaghetti - as well as some more exciting offerings, like enchiladas and curries. We went for a selection of the starters - by far the most varied option - and a couple of sides. This included the most lovely, plump, and minty summer rolls, some gluten-free quesadillas, the most crisp and rich cashew cheese croquettes, sauteed spinach, and the most incredible marinated fried tofu. This tofu was insane - the closest thing I could compare it to is fried chicken, which basically means it was really damn good. The croquettes came with red pepper jelly, which I then ate on top of everything else I could find. It all made me really happy - one could not miss meat at this meal.

So Manna - a good option if you're near Regent's Park, and it can go either way, from casual to smart. I've been here for casual dinners after a long walk and for celebratory birthdays - they do both well. Oh, and as I love pudding a lot, I can't finish this without mentioning how lovely and dainty their petit fours are - with a coffee, after a lovely meal replete with tofu, they make a perfect ending.

the definitive list, 6: the bull & last.

2011-08-25T04:17:00.000-07:00

The Bull and Last
168 Highgate Road
London, NW5 1QS

(Image by Euan Munro)

When I first came to the UK, I was completely confused by the idea of the gastropub. I didn't quite get the difference between a pub that was intended for drinking and the newer, middle-class breed of pubs for posh pubfood. I'm not sure I understood the need, when there was a perfectly good selection of restaurants on offer, and couldn't quite fathom why one would go to a pub in search of a meal.

But that kind of thinking melted away fairly quickly when I realised how poor the food in most pubs was, and how lovely it was to sit in a nice gastropub, drink in hand, munching away at some really posh chips or a nice plate of gnocchi. Seems incongruous, but it's become something I don't really like the idea of going without.

Enter The Bull and Last, my local. It's about fifty yards from my house and directly across from Hampstead Heath. This makes it both a complete draw on a hot, sunny day and a complete nightmare, because it is almost always packed with local families and dogs, slowly sipping their pints, munching on artisanal cheeseboards and scotch eggs. But if you can find yourself a spot - weeknights are doable if you get there early, weekends if you book - you're in for a treat.

The focus here is on provenance, traditional but well-executed dishes, and a community atmosphere. To be fair, they specialise in meat and meaty bits - including pigs' ears for dogs - and as a vegetarian, I don't really partake of such things, but I can endorse the fact that they are really responsible about their sourcing and have a fairly strong nose-to-tail attitude to meat. Everyone in my family eats meat and I'd happily bring them here to eat. The bulls' heads on the walls are a bit serious-looking, but there's also a nice map of London and some antique locks strewn about to distract the eye.

But on my end, I come here for two things: triple-cooked chips and courgette fritters. The chips, perhaps more akin to roast potatoes, are giant nuggets of crisp, fluffy potato, served up with homemade mayonnaise. They aren't cheap (as chips) at £3.50 but they are a meal in themselves. On a sunny day after swimming on the Heath, chips with a pint - you will get nothing better.

And the fritters. Dear god, why did I not discover these many years ago? On my last visit they did a three vegetable fritto misto, including courgettes and celery leaves, but have typically done shoestring-thin bits of courgette in an airy batter, fried into a tiny nest of salty perfection. Dipped in sherry vinegar, I could eat plate after plate of these. Their crispness dissolves on the tongue in such a way that it's almost like eating nothing at all - but it's really, really satisfying.

It's worth mentioning that The Bull and Last also does some nice puddings, including homemade ice cream, and a very popular sunday lunch. Their burgers, on sourdough bread stacked high with cheese, gherkins, and meat (but which aren't always on the menu), have been a favourite amongst my friends. And their salads are really very nice, especially as in the summer they do some nice mixed greens with pea and cheese curd fritters. Delightful. On a Sunday, the pub quiz means the place is completely packed well in advance, so booking is definitely advisable, and setting aside a bit of a budget is a good idea, as this is in no way a cheap menu. But that's never stopped me, and once you taste those chips, it won't stop you either.

the definitive list, 5: princi.

2011-08-11T04:53:00.000-07:00

Princi
135 Wardour Street,
London, W1F 0UT

You might have noticed a coffee and pudding bias to my suggestions, and you'd be right to say that I probably eat too much dessert, but I really can't go a day without it. So I need to have options, right? This is by far the best option. Anyone who has spent any time with me will know how much I love cannoli. It's a problem. I'm an addict. I could eat it daily. Whoever thought of frying pastry and filling it with sweetened cheese was an absolute genius. And Princi does the best cannoli.

Princi is in no way discreet. Shiny, busy, and oh-so trendy, it spans a long frontage in Wardour Street, right in the epicentre of most of my favourite dining options. So it is my go-to after-dinner stop, where I load up on cannoli, tiramisu, madeleines, and espresso. The cannoli are enormous - and they should be, at £4+ each - and studded with candied orange. Frequented by media types and, supposedly, the trendy Italian set, it's near-impossible to find a spot to sit, but the stony monoliths dotted around the place act as standing tables. There's a water fountain built into the wall. There's a bouncer/security man who will vaguely chat to you and then find you a table. It's like being some exclusive nightclub, with pastry.

Part of the draw to Princi is their wood-oven. They do woodfired pizzas and artisanal breads, as well as pastas, salads, and pastries. Supposedly they open at 7 a.m. and serve breakfast, but I've never been here before 7 at night. They're open late and are invariably packed on weeknights when people finish work.

And for somewhere so busy, the service is pretty decent. There are loads of Italian men working behind the counter, topping pizzas in the back or making espressos at the bar. I've occasionally thought there must be some kind of unspoken code with regards to hiring, if I'm honest, as everything in this busy little place - from pastries to people - is very pleasing on the eye. Not that that's relevant, but when I'm in a bit of a mood and trek into Soho just for cannoli, the charming smile of the man handing me my espresso certainly lightens things up a bit. Lots of reasons for dessert, you see.

the definitive list, 4: wahaca.

2011-08-06T13:43:00.000-07:00

Wahaca
80 Wardour Street
London, W1F 0TF
or
66 Chandos Place
London, WC2N 4HG

I have a thing for burritos. And tacos. And any food that comes in wrapper-filling format. Can there be anything better? Probably not. Combine this with my (childhood) love of Mexican food and my general admiration for all things made British, and Wahaca becomes a necessary stop-off on my list.

A few provisos. Wahaca is a chain. A small chain, albeit, but I've listed the two locations I've eaten in above. Opened a few years back by Masterchef winner Thomasina Miers, the principle is basically Mexican market style eating - so small plates - in a casual environment. In reality, this translates to a fairly regional twist on Mexican food served up at high-pace in a busy room buzzing with some form of dance music. This is my perennial experience of Wahaca. I kind of think it's fun.

But really - this place was listed as the best Cheap Eats in the OFM Awards a while back, so I'd be surprised if any of this was news to anyone. So on to what I like about it.

Decent drinks in heavy glassware. They do a selection of drinks at the bar - where you will undoubtedly wait for your table, as they don't take bookings - including some snazzy mojitos. In truth, I'm addicted to horchata, the cinnamon-laced almond milk concoction tinged with a slight sweetness. Give me a horchata over an alcoholic drink any day.

Tostadas. I really like contrasting textures and temperatures and I especially like cold food. So their tostadas - on my last visit, blackbean, but in my favourite past rendition, with cactus - are lovely and bitesized and just a wee bit messy. I love this. These, however, are just one amongst their selection of small plates (tacos, taquitos as above, etc.) - and vegetarians are well-catered for. I've heard say that the chicken tacos and ceviche are also pretty darn good.

And lastly, churros. Churros and chocolate. Thick, dark chocolate with cinnamon-flecked doughnut. Need I say more?

the definitive list, 3: koya.

2011-07-29T10:20:00.000-07:00

Koya
49 Frith Street,
London, W1D 4SG

I was a little late on the Koya train, if I'm honest. Since it opened in 2010, many have been quick to applaud its quick, affordable, and high quality approach to udon. Reviews have popped up on a smattering of London food blogs, and it's pretty much the first recommendation that Time Out lists for Soho restaurants.

So why I am writing about it? Because it is by far my favourite restaurant. I'm addicted. I can't stop talking about it. And I can't stop taking people to eat here.

I'm pretty hooked on noodles on an ordinary day, but when I first stepped through the non-descript curtain that serves as the entryway to Koya it was like stepping into tiled-floor, utilitarian-decor heaven. With homemade udon noodles. Dear god...

And did I mention the walnut miso? This is really the thing that keeps me going back to Koya. Walnut miso - sweet, sour, salty, and peanut-buttery in texture, I could eat it on a spoon, on its own, every day. I normally order their kinoko hiya-atsu, cold udon with hot broth, with an array of mushrooms, cabbage, and walnut miso. But unlike so many restaurants, the vegetables here are really top-notch - the mushrooms are all really perfect, and the broths aren't over-seasoned. There is a lightness to everything here.

Koya serves udon in three ways - hot noodles in hot broth, cold noodles in hot broth, or cold with sauce for dipping. I go for the cold noodles in hot broth simply because I love the contrast - and I also order tempura bits to sprinkle on top, adding a pleasing crunch to the whole experience. They also do a number of small plates - on my most recent visit, a delectable fried tofu dumpling served in a mild broth with chanterelles - and donburi. And while the udon is definitely the reason to come, they do everything quite well. Go and you will be converted. I promise.

lavender and blueberry fraisier.

2011-07-28T14:11:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, july.
This month we were asked to bake fraisiers, light sponge cakes filled with pastry cream and lined with fruit. I'm pretty sure the name derives from the conventional strawberries used in this cake, but alas, I hate strawberries and went for blueberries instead. So it's not really a fraisier, in that sense, but more of a bluetiere? Does that make any sense?

The cake recipe itself was incredible simply and really lovely - the lightest cake I've ever made, more akin to an angel's food cake, it was moist, cloud-like, and not to sweet. I added lavender to my pastry cream for a floral note and lined the edges with organic blueberries. Simple, yes, but rewarding, too. It's not a heavy cake, so is ideal for hot summer days.

Jana of Cherry Tea Cakes was our July Daring Bakers’ host and she challenges us to make Fresh Frasiers inspired by recipes written by Elisabeth M. Prueitt and Chad Robertson in the beautiful cookbook Tartine.

*****

Basic Chiffon Cake
Ingredients:
1 cup + 2 tablespoons (270 ml) (5½ oz/155 gm) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (4 gm) baking powder
3/4 cups (180 ml) (6 oz /170 gm) sugar
1/2 teaspoon (2½ ml) (1½ gm) salt, preferably kosher
1/4 cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) vegetable oil
3 large egg yolks
⅓ cup + 1 tablespoon (3.17 fl oz/95 ml) water
1 teaspoon (5 ml) pure vanilla extract
3/4 teaspoon (3¾ ml) (3 gm) lemon zest, grated
5 large egg whites
¼ teaspoon (1¼ ml) (1 gm) cream of tartar

Directions:

Preheat the oven to moderate 325°F (160°C/gas mark 3).
Line the bottom of an 8-inch (20 cm) spring form pan with parchment paper. Do not grease the sides of the pan.
In a large mixing bowl, stir together the flour and baking powder. Add in all but 3 tablespoons (45 ml.) of sugar, and all of the salt. Stir to combine.
In a small bowl combine the oil, egg yolks, water, vanilla and lemon zest. Whisk thoroughly.
Combine with the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly for about one minute, or until very smooth.
Put the egg whites into a stand mixer, and beat on medium speed using a whisk attachment on a medium speed, until frothy. Add cream of tartar and beat on a medium speed until the whites hold soft peaks. Slowly add the remaining sugar and beat on a medium-high speed until the whites hold firm and form shiny peaks.
Using a grease free rubber spatula, scoop about ⅓ of the whites into the yolk mixture and fold in gently. Gently fold in the remaining whites just until combined.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes or until toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
Removed the cake from the oven and allow to cool in the pan on a wire rack.
To unmold, run a knife around the sides to loosen the cake from the pan and remove the spring form sides. Invert the cake and peel off the parchment paper. Refrigerate for up to four days.

Pastry Cream Filling
Ingredients:
1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) whole milk
1/2 teaspoon (2½ ml) pure vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon (1/2 ml) (¼ gm) salt, preferably kosher
2 tablespoons (30 ml) (10 gm)cornstarch
1/4 cup (60 ml) (2 oz/55 gm) sugar
1 large egg
2 tablespoons (30 ml) (1 oz/30 gm) unsalted butter
3/4 teaspoon (3¾ ml) (4 gm) gelatin - I used VegeSet
1/2 tablespoon (7½ ml) water
1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) heavy cream

Directions:

Pour the milk, vanilla, and salt into a heavy sauce pan. Place over medium-high heat and scald, bringing it to a near boiling point. Stir occasionally.
Meanwhile, in a stand mixer add the cornstarch and sugar. Whisk to combine
Add the eggs to the sugar and cornstarch and whisk until smooth.
When the milk is ready, gently and slowly while the stand mixer is whisking, pour the heated milk down the side of the bowl into the egg mixture.
Pour the mixture back into the warm pot and continue to cook over a medium heat until the custard is thick, just about to boil and coats the back of a spoon.
Remove from heat and pass through a fine mesh sieve into a large mixing bowl. Allow to cool for ten minutes stirring occasionally.
Cut the butter into four pieces and whisk into the pastry cream a piece at a time until smooth.
Cover the cream with plastic wrap, pressing the plastic wrap onto the top of the cream to prevent a skin from forming. Chill in the refrigerator for up to five days.
In a small dish, sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let stand for a few minutes to soften.
Put two inches (55 mm) of water into a small sauce pan and bring to a simmer over a medium heat.
Measure 1/4 cup (2 oz/60 ml) of the chilled pastry cream into a small stainless steel bowl that will sit across the sauce pan with the simmering water, without touching the water.
Heat the cream until it is 120 F (48.8 C). Add the gelatin and whisk until smooth. Remove from the water bath, and whisk the remaining cold pastry cream in to incorporate in two batches.
In a stand mixer, fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the cream until it holds medium-stiff peaks. Immediately fold the whipped cream into the pastry cream with a rubber spatula.

Simple Syrup
Ingredients:
1/3 cup (2⅔ fl oz/80 ml) (2⅔ oz/75 gm) of sugar, flavored or white
1/3 cup (2⅔ fl oz/80 ml) of water

Directions:

Combine the water and sugar in a medium saucepan.
Bring the mixture to a boil and let the sugar dissolve. Stirring is not necessary, but will not harm the syrup.
Remove the syrup from the heat and cool slightly.
Transfer syrup to a lidded container or jar that can be stored in the refrigerator. Simple syrup can be stored for up to one month.

Assembly
Components:
1 baked 8 inch (20 cm) chiffon cake
1 recipe pastry cream filling
⅓ cup (80 ml) simple syrup or flavored syrup
2 lbs (900 g) strawberries
confectioners’ sugar for dusting
½ cup (120 ml) (5 oz/140 gm) almond paste

Directions:

Line the sides of a 8-inch (20 cm) spring form pan with plastic wrap. Do not line the bottom of the pan.
Cut the cake in half horizontally to form two layers.
Fit the bottom layer into the prepared spring form pan. Moisten the layer evenly with the simple syrup. When the cake has absorbed enough syrup to resemble a squishy sponge, you have enough.
Hull and slice in half enough strawberries to arrange around the sides of the cake pan. Place the cut side of the strawberry against the sides of the pan, point side up forming a ring.
Pipe cream in-between strawberries and a thin layer across the top of the cake.
Hull and quarter your remaining strawberries and place them in the middle of the cake. Cover the strawberries and entirely with the all but 1 tbsp. (15 ml) of the pastry cream.
Place the second cake layer on top and moisten with the simple syrup.
Lightly dust a work surface with confectioners' sugar and roll out the almond paste to a 10-inch (25 cm) round 1/16 inch (1.5 mm) thick. Spread the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of pastry cream on the top of the cake and cover with the round of almond paste.
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.
To serve release the sides of the spring form pan and peel away the plastic wrap.
Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

the definitive list, 2: ginger and white.

2011-07-23T07:12:00.000-07:00

Ginger and White,
4a-5a Perrins Court
NW3 1QS.

When I first moved to London, I struggled to find good coffee. There is an abundance of bad coffee in this city, and it takes a little research to find the good stuff. Monmouth. Flat White. These are staples. But for a long while, there wasn't anything local to me. Then Ginger and White opened, and all of my café fantasies were fulfilled.

A big wooden table. Cakes. Upturned crates doubling as tables. Old church chairs. And perfect, smooth coffee. Jing teas. And the best buttered toast on the planet. All served on vintage Poole pottery (an obsession of mine), enamelware, and glassware. I can't speak more highly of this place.

Opened in 2009 by a trio of food stylists and restaurant consultants, Ginger and White is right on the mark. Their motto, "We don't do grande", is printed atop the Union Jack on their loyalty cards. They do proper food. Toast with gentleman's relish, soft boiled eggs, and fantastic salads and soups. Tucked into Perrins Court, a little laneway off Hampstead High Street, this place has become so popular that you'll be hard-pressed to find a table during weekend breakfast hours, but it's a perfect stop-off on weekdays. They have tables outside for sunny days and a lovely old sofa inside for lounging about. I don't know how I'll ever live without this place.

the definitive list, 1: the nordic bakery.

2011-07-16T09:46:00.000-07:00

Things are seriously changing. I'm moving back to Canada in little more than a month, ready to begin my PhD in September. I'm leaving a city that has truly become home to me, a city that has at once terrified, fascinated, engulfed, and exhausted me. When I moved to London, it took me months to reset my internal pace to that of the city; years later, I find myself able to walk at full-speed through a crowd on Oxford Street. It is in this city that I learned how to live like a salmon constantly swimming upstream - and it's made me much stronger in so many ways.

I didn't have a clue about the city when I moved here, really. But I made a point of figuring it out as best as I could; I explored all my local restaurants, tried some of the nicer ones, and started cultivating a routine. Today, I feel badly for the millions of tourists who find themselves in the middle of London, confronted with a daunting array of bad restaurants. There are good ones if you know where to look, but even for those who live here, this takes time and research. Testing and more testing. But you eventually find those fantastic little spots, off a side street or tucked off the tourist routes. There are some places that are ever popular - St. John, Ottolenghi, etc. - but likewise there are places that lots of people know and love but just keep quiet about.

Each time a friend has visited the city, I've received a kindly-phrased request, usually along the lines of "Where is good to eat in X-location?" I always enjoy taking friends into my favourite places. When I announced my plans to move away, a few of them suggested that I use the next few weeks on the blog to document these - my definitive list of places to eat in London. Some cafés, some bakeries, some restaurants. High-end to on-the-go. So this is my first suggestion.

*****

Nordic Bakery
14 Golden Square, London, W1F 9JG
http://www.nordicbakery.com/

The Nordic Bakery is exactly as you might imagine it: blue walls, simple wooden tables, and a shiny glass frontage. On the days that I work in the Victoria office, I like to hop off the bus at Regent Street and wander over to the bakery. There is always a queue first thing - everyone waiting for one of their indescribably strong coffees and warm, intensely sticky cinnamon buns. I pop in and grab mine to take away, then walk, eating and drinking, down Piccadilly. It is a brilliant wake-up routine.

But I also go here for a completely different reason. When I have loads of writing to do and simply can't bear the British Library, I go to the Nordic Bakery. Because this place has a distinct lack of atmosphere. No music, no noise. The interior is non-offensive. It's both physically and audibly quiet. And this isn't a bad thing... it's pretty darn special in the middle of Soho. I've sat at a back table here for an hour and gotten more work done than I'd do in the library in an entire day. And they're really welcoming - get a cup of coffee and stay for quite some time. No one will bother you.

They specialise in an array of Nordic pastries - cinnamon buns, karelian pie - and they do a selection of smørrebrød. They sell lingonberry jam and elderflower cordial, and even have a nice little cookbook available. Worth a stop-off for breakfast or a snack after a long day's shopping.

a little over the top - penne with spinach, lemon, and chilies.

2011-07-02T12:10:00.000-07:00

I've had a bit of a difficult stretch over the past two weeks, marked by intensity in all feelings and events. Things have been both really good and really tough to bear - marked by love, loss, death, and the general anxiety that usual accompanies all of these. Things in my life are changing, and that's not an entirely bad thing.

But it's left me with a lot of strange energy. I either spend a lot of time at my computer, looking at the same things again and again, or take my energy out onto Hampstead Heath, running as hard as I can for as long as I can. I've spent a lot of time sitting in my front window, staring into space. It must seem crazy to other people. And as a result of all this, I haven't really been eating very well - skipping meals, overeating when I'm not hungry, eating sandwiches as I run to do the next thing on my list. I haven't been cooking. And I haven't really wanted to.

Which is crazy, right? I love to cook. It's where I always used to take all of my emotions - I'd turn on some Emmy the Great, sing really loudly, and bake a cake. I'd chop vegetables really quickly until my hands went numb. I'd calm myself by melting butter. So I figured, if I can't get rid of this intensity - and if I really have to go through it - then I'd damn well like to eat something that can match it.

This pasta is really quick - but it's got a bit too much going on. But in a good way. It's spicy, sour, salty, and really fresh tasting. Capers, garlic and green chili form an intense heat, while sour lemons and salty parmesan add bite. I could eat bowls of it, again and again. And at this rate, I might end up doing that.

*****

Penne with Spinach, Lemon, and Chilies
Enough for two.
200 grams brown rice penne, or whatever kind you like
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tbsp. capers, roughly chopped
1 large green chili, minced
three big handfuls baby spinach, torn
1/2 lemon
parmesan
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. Bring your water to a boil and toss in your pasta. 2. Meanwhile, gently fry your garlic, capers, and chili in a bit of olive oil. Once they are fragrant and just softened, toss in your spinach and season with loads of pepper and a bit of salt. 3. Continue to cook your spinach down until it's wilted, about two minutes, and then either take a few spoonfuls of it and blend in a blender or, if you're like me, find a way to blitz some of it directly in the pan using an immersion blender. Season to taste. 4. Drain your pasta, reserving a spoonful of your pasta water, and toss into the spinach. Toss well, remove from heat, and squeeze with lemon. Check the seasoning and serve covered with lots of parmesan and more pepper.

baking baklava.

2011-06-27T09:18:00.001-07:00

daring bakers, june.

God, is there anything better than chopping nuts by hand? Few things, to be sure. Melting chocolate, maybe. Halfway through making this month's Daring Bakers challenge, I was convinced there was not. I love chopping nuts - their quick crunch under the blade, the meditative motion of reducing them to a fine powder... so much more soothing than using a food processor.

And that's what this month was all about - doing things by hand. We were asked to make the phyllo and given the option of making any variations we liked - but I went classic. I love baklava. More than anything. I always wanted a baklava wedding cake, though that may be a contradiction in terms. Point is - nuts, spiced syrup, crisp pastry? What more could a girl ask for?

I made a bit too much, if I'm honest, and now have an entire roasting tin full of baklava. Even I, baklava addict that I am (I once ate about 12 servings when I was in Greece for 7 days) cannot eat it. I might need some help... any volunteers?

Erica of Erica’s Edibles was our host for the Daring Baker’s June challenge. Erica challenged
us to be truly DARING by making homemade phyllo dough and then to use that homemade dough to make
Baklava.

*****

Phyllo
1 1/3 cups (320 ml) (185 gm/6½ oz) unbleached all purpose (plain) flour
1/8 teaspoon (2/3 ml) (¾ gm) salt
1/2 cup less 1 tablespoon (105 ml) water, plus more if needed
2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil, plus additional for coating the dough
1/2 teaspoon (2½ ml) cider vinegar, (could substitute white wine vinegar or red wine vinegar, but could affect the
taste)

1. In the bowl of your stand mixer combine flour and salt 2. Mix with paddle attachment 3. Combine water, oil and vinegar in a small bowl. 4. Add water & oil mixture with mixer on low speed, mix until you get a soft dough, if it appears dry add a
little more water (I had to add a tablespoon more). 5. Change to the dough hook and let knead approximately 10 minutes. You will end up with beautiful smooth dough. If you are kneading by hand, knead approx. 20 minutes. 6. Remove the dough from mixer and continue to knead for 2 more minutes. Pick up the dough and through it down hard on the counter a few times during the kneading process. 7. Shape the dough into a ball and lightly cover with oil. 8. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and let rest 30-90 minutes, longer is best.

Rolling your dough:
1. Unwrap your dough and cut off a chunk slightly larger then a golf ball. While you are rolling be sure to keep
the other dough covered so it doesn’t dry out. 2. Be sure to flour your hands, rolling pin and counter. As you roll you will need to keep adding, don’t worry, you can’t over-flour. 3. Roll out the dough a bit to flatten it out. 4. Wrap the dough around your rolling pin/dowel. 5. Roll back and forth quickly with the dough remaining on the dowel (see attached video for a visual,
its much easier then it sounds). 6. Remove; notice how much bigger it is! 7. Rotate and repeat until it is as thin as you can it. Don’t worry if you get rips in the dough, as long as you have one perfect one for the top you will never notice. 8. When you get it as thin as you can with the rolling pin, carefully pick it up with well floured hands and stretch it on the backs of your hands as you would a pizza dough, just helps make it that much thinner. Roll out your dough until it is transparent. 9. Set aside on a well-floured surface. Repeat the process until your dough is used up. Between each sheet again flower well. You will not need to cover your dough with a wet cloth, as you do with boxed dough, it is moist enough that it will not try out.

Syrup

1 1/4 cups (300 ml) honey
1 1/4 cups (300ml) water
1 1/4 cups (300 ml) (280 gm/10 oz) sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1 (2-inch/50 mm) piece fresh citrus peel (lemon or orange work best)
a few cloves or a pinch or ground clove

1. Combine all ingredients in a medium pot over medium high heat. Stir occasionally until sugar has dissolved. 2. Boil for 10 minutes, stir occasionally. 3. Once boiled for 10 minutes remove from heat and strain cinnamon stick and lemon, allow to cool as baklava cooks.

Baklava
1 (5-inch/125 mm piece) cinnamon stick, broken into 2 to 3 pieces or 2 teaspoons (10 ml) (8 gm) ground cinnamon
15 to 20 whole allspice berries ( I just used a few pinches)
3/4 cup (180 ml) (170 gm/6 oz) blanched almonds
3/4 cup (180 ml) (155 gm/5½ oz) raw or roasted walnuts
3/4 cup (180 ml) (140 gm/5 oz) raw or roasted pistachios
2/3 cup (160 ml) (150 gm/ 5 1/3 oz) sugar
phyllo dough (see recipe above)
1 cup (2 sticks) (240 ml) (225g/8 oz) melted butter

1. Preheat oven to moderate 350°F/180°C/gas mark 4.
2. Combine nuts, sugar and spices in a food processor and pulse on high until finely chopped. If you do not
have a food processor chop with a sharp knife as fine as you can. Set aside. 3. Trim your phyllo sheets to fit in your pan. 4. Brush bottom of pan with butter and place first phyllo sheet. 5. Brush the first phyllo sheet with butter and repeat approximately 5 times ending with butter. (Most recipes say more, but homemade phyllo is thicker so it's not needed) 6. Sprinkle 1/3 of the nut mixture on top 7. Continue layering phyllo and buttering repeating 4 times 8. Sprinkle 1/3 of the nut mixture on top
9. Continue layering phyllo and buttering repeating 4 times. 10. Sprinkle 1/3 of the nut mixture on top. 11. Continue layering and buttering phyllo 5 more times. On the top layer, make sure you have a piece of phyllo
with no holes if possible, just looks better. 12. Once you have applied the top layer tuck in all the edges to give a nice appearance. 13. With a Sharp knife cut your baklava in desired shapes and number of pieces. If you can't cut all the ways
through don’t worry you will cut again later. A 9x9 pan cuts nicely into 30 pieces. Then brush with a
generous layer of butter making sure to cover every area and edge. 14. Bake for approximately 30 minutes; remove from oven and cut again this time all the way through. Continue baking for another 30 minutes. (Oven temperatures will vary, you are looking for the top to be a golden brown, take close watch yours may need more or less time in the oven) 15. When baklava is cooked remove from oven and pour the cooled (will still be warmish) syrup evenly over the top, taking care to cover all surfaces when pouring. It looks like it is a lot but over night the syrup will soak into the baklava creating a beautifully sweet and wonderfully textured baklava!

traveling more, eating less.

2011-06-21T13:26:00.000-07:00

I've been away again, leading to a bit of downtime here at the blog. Very sorry about that - but I promise there will be a Daring Bakers challenge by the end of the week, as well as some other things I've eaten along the way.

It's been a busy few weeks - in the run-up to last week, I was nose-to-the-books trying to finish a paper, which I then presented at the International Institute for Applied Aesthetics summer conference in Lahti, Finland. The conference, on urban nature, was just the most inspiring thing; populated by so many doing similar work to me, it was exactly the place to go for a boost in morale. It helped me come around to my recent decision to move to Toronto to begin my PhD at York University in the autumn.

Anyhow, eating in Finland is always a bit tough for me. It's not exactly a cuisine built on vegetarian staples; meat and fish figure heavily, but there is a preponderance of rye amongst the breads, which works well for me. But these kinds of things are often less about the food than about the company.

During the conference dinner, I tucked into a simple plate of vegetable gratin and potatoes, but barely noticed it for the quality of conversation. I was eating with my absolute favourite living philosopher, Arnold Berleant, discussing the future of the field and the future of my research. It was the most incredible opportunity for me, and really solidified my feeling that this is exactly what I want to be doing with my life.

Later, I tucked into an old favourite - essentially a cinnamon bun and a plain old cup of coffee. I don't know why this is so comforting, but it's the best part of traveling in Finland. No Danish pastry, of course, but a nice bun, a warm drink, and fantastic company make it just as good.

More to come later in the week.

borage and ricotta cannelloni.

2011-06-04T11:57:00.001-07:00

It's getting a bit late in the season now for borage, but I happened to have a little pot of it growing on the windowsill and figured I should put it to use. It's mild and subtle when young - but I wouldn't use it after its first few weeks, as it gets sticky, nettle-like, and a bit tough.

Here, I've chopped it with spinach, stirred it into ricotta, and stuffed the mixture into fresh, hand-rolled sheets of pasta. I topped the whole thing off with a simple, garlicky cream sauce and popped it under the grill.

A note on hand-rolling pasta: it takes forever and quite a lot of muscle. If you have a machine, which I don't, go for it, but it's kind of satisfying to do it by hand. It's impossible to get the pasta paper-thin, but I roll until I can see my blue countertop through the pasta, then hold it up to the light to see my hand through it.

*****

Borage and Ricotta Cannelloni
Makes enough for three or four.

Half a batch pasta dough - I used Jamie Oliver's, here. Roll into 6x6 inch sheets.
1 small tub ricotta
1 clove garlic
1 small handful tender young borage leaves, finely chopped
a handful spinach, finely chopped
1 cup whole milk
1 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. flour
salt and pepper
olive oil
parmesan cheese
parsley and basil to garnish

1. Finely mince half of your garlic clove and stir into the ricotta. Stir in your greens, a splash of olive oil, and season to taste. 2. Melt your butter in a small saucepan and stir in your flour to form a roux. Toss in the rest of your garlic, minced, and whisk in your milk. Bring to a simmer and season to taste. Set aside. 3. Bring a pot of water to the boil and cook your pasta sheets until just cooked. Drain and rinse under cool water. 4. Begin assembly by coating the base of a baking sheet with a bit of olive oil and a spoonful of your white sauce. 5. Take each sheet of pasta and lay it out flat. Stuff with a few spoonfuls of ricotta mixture and roll up like a burrito. Line them up in the pan fairly tightly. 6. Pour over the rest of your sauce, grate over some parmesan, and pop in the oven at 400 F (200C) until golden brown. Serve with herbs sprinkled over the top.

making the most of elderflower: cordial and champagne.

2011-06-03T12:40:00.000-07:00

There's one thing I absolutely can't get enough of in British summertime, and it's elderflower. Before elderflower, I never felt a conspicuous absence in my life or anything. I didn't feel like I was missing out on something enormous. But then, when I moved to England, it hit me! The only reason I didn't notice how much I'd been missing out on elderflower over the years was that elderflower is more subtle than that.

It's light, floral, and not at all in your face. So of course, I had no idea what I was missing.

Living next to the Heath, I have easy access to some of the nicest, fume-free elderflowers. This year, they started to come in around early May, but they will last another few weeks I expect. I picked these in a brief foraging frenzy along the top of Parliament Hill - but anywhere you are (in the UK, Scandinavia, etc...) you're likely to find some. Be sure to pick from trees that aren't next to busy roads, and pick heads with open, fresh-looking flowers.

With just a handful of flower heads, I made up a batch of cordial and a couple of bottles of champagne in about an hour - from tree to steeping. Both need a good day's steeping to get the flavours going, but the cordial will be ready immediately after sieving. The champagne is still tucked away under the kitchen table, hopefully fermenting - but I'll keep you posted on that!

*****

Elderflower Cordial

10 heads of elderflower, shaken off well and picked over for bugs
800 grams sugar
1 litre water
1 1/2 lemons

1. Peel your lemon rind and slice the fruit, popping them in a large bowl with your elderflowers. 2. In a pot, mix together your sugar and water and bring to a boil. Once your sugar has dissolved, pour your syrup over the flowers and lemons. Cover with a plate or lid and leave to steep for 24 hours. 3. Once ready (it will smell strongly of elderflower), sieve through a muslin-lined strainer and decant into clean bottles or jars. Keeps for a few weeks, but can also be frozen in plastic vessels.

Elderflower Champagne
Ensure your tools are sterilised when making this!

2 heads of elderflower, shaken off well and picked over for bugs
500 grams sugar
1/2 lemon
2 tbsp. white wine vinegar
5 litres cold water

1. Put your elderflower in a large (at least 5 litre) container like a bucket or large pot. Add the peel of the lemon and the juice. Toss in your sugar and vinegar. 2. Pour over your cold water, cover, and leave to steep for 24 hours. 3. Remove the larger debris from your liquid, and then strain through a muslin-lined sieve. 4. Decant into sterile bottles (glass screw tops or plastic pop bottles work well) and seal up tight. 5. Leave somewhere out of the way for at least two weeks, longer for a better flavour.

eating my way through copenhagen.

2011-05-27T08:32:00.000-07:00

I've been in Copenhagen this week, attending the Nordic Society of Aesthetics Annual Conference and eating my way through mountains of pastry. Having heard good things about food in this city, I'll say I wasn't disappointed in the least. I normally spend my time travelling in Europe starving, looking for a decent vegetarian option and something without too much wheat. Needless to say, Copenhagen's progressive approach to dining and bountiful stocks of rye bread served me well.

Before anyone asks, I wasn't in any way organised enough to get myself a booking at Noma. I would've had to book three months ago, from what I can tell. But I did lurk outside it long enough to take this photo.

Occupying a waterfront space at the end of a stretch of warehouses, I was certainly underwhelmed by its location. Nice views from within, I'm sure, but if, like me, you are travelling on foot, it's a pretty bleak trek through a wilderness of concrete and old industrial buildings to reach this foodie mecca. But hey, maybe it's worth the trek; I hear the food's alright.

Instead, during my brief exploration of Christianshavn, I wandered through the free city of Christiania to find Morgenstedet, a tiny vegetarian kitchen tucked into an unmarked back lane. I was unsure of whether I'd find the place, winding my way through the makeshift streets of Christiania lined with hashstalls and signs prohibiting photographs. While I harbour plenty of alternative political sentiments, I couldn't help feeling like I stuck out like a sore thumb in my buttoned-down shirt and loafers, a stack of conference papers tucked under my arm. But I found it in the end, right at the end of a road to the north of Pusher St.

Would I be overzealous in saying this was the best meal of my trip? Certainly not. It was the cheapest by far, and did the unfussy, all veggie menu thing better than most places I've been. The staff were incredibly friendly, and when they happened to burn the hot meal of the day - an aubergine sauce of some kind - were incredibly apologetic. Instead, I tucked into a bowl of hot vegetable soup, sprinkled with sesame seeds and served with the softest bread. I ate a plateful of carrot and raisin salad and drank a bottle of elderflower soda and a giant cup of rooibos tea.

This place is just lovely - so unpretentious that even the toilets are located in an outhouse in the garden. There are large picnic tables outside for sunny days, or you can sit inside and watch over the open, homey kitchen. If I could go back, I definitely would.

But this is really where the budget options ended. In my first day in Copenhagen, I somehow blazed through half of the money I'd budgeted for the trip. Living in London, I thought I was used to high prices - but this was on a completely different level. Most of my meals worked out to £20+, and an afternoon snack of pastry and coffee will run you about £6

But if you can hack the prices, what pastry you will find in this city! I popped into Lagkagehuset to try some of the eponymous Danish pastries and was certainly pleased with what I found there.

The bakery itself reminded me a bit of Princi, the Italian bakery in London's Soho. Sleek, efficient, and packed with pastry-loving clientele, Lagkagehuset has room to sit and people-watch if you don't feel like taking your pastry to go. I was completely incapable of pronouncing any of the Danish pastry names, so I pointed to a few things behind the counter and tucked into them all. The direktør snegl, essentially an authentic danish, was the flakiest, loveliest thing I've come across. Like a cross between puff, phyllo, and bread, this was unlike any danish I've eaten before. I also sampled a soft, fragrant cinnamon bun, glazed with icing. With a cup of strong coffee, these made an indulgent afternoon snack.

But one certainly couldn't come to Copenhagen and not try the classic smørrebrød, which I believe translates literally as buttered bread. I was inexplicably destined to sample three types: egg and tomato, potato with smoked cream cheese, and cheese smørrebrød. Incredibly filling - yet strangely virtuous - the dishes showcase the toppings more than the rye bread itself, which hides underneath like a nutty canvas. Sat next to the tall ships on Nyhavn, an afternoon lunch of smørrebrød is certainly not to be missed.

Perhaps the most self-consciously hip restaurant I've come across, Tight made a decent Friday night choice. Dark, candle-lit, and bustling, the restaurant is all exposed-brick and wooden beams. The (all-male) servers showed none of the European indifference to which I've become accustomed; they were all attentive, if a little rushed off their feet. At 235 kr. for two courses, it was middle-of-the-road price-wise; though, that did wrangle me a nice mushroom and truffle soup to start and a gently flavoured asparagus risotto for my main.

But on my final day there, a Saturday, the tradition of brunch simply couldn't be missed. The Copenhageners' love of brunch is something I can get behind; it's a pretty common sentiment amongst my friends, who once paid homage to the midday meal by organising a brunch crawl, complete with brunch-themed t-shirts. So I ventured to Nørrebro, apparently a cool bit of town, to sample the brunch offerings at the popular Laundromat Café. Having loaded up on rundstykke and eggs in my hotel, I couldn't bring myself to eat another breakfast, so instead sampled the veggie burger and chips. At 135 kr., this was a pretty reasonable meal. It is a busy place, complete with laundromat in the back, old paperbacks shelved by spine-colour, and fairly indifferent staff. It's around the corner from the Assistens Kirkegard cemetery, so if you're visiting H.C. Anderson, Niels Bohr, or Soren Kierkegaard, this is a decent place to stop off.

Before leaving the city, I stocked up on pastries from Lagekagehuset, such that on my return, I was able to enjoy Danish pastry once more from the comfort of my London kitchen. But I'd do anything to be back there, eating even more.

See my full photo album here.

See the paper I presented here.

plain and simple welshcakes.

2011-05-15T11:12:00.000-07:00

Growing up, there were few things my family liked to devour as much as a plate of fresh Welshcakes. Tiny, delicate, and mildly sweet, they made the perfect addition to a cup of tea and the perfect snack whilst waiting for a proper meal.

My Nan, who grew up in south Wales, made these when we were very little. I always remember them spread over a plain china plate, tucked onto the counter and waiting to be eaten. And eaten they were - very quickly, so that poor Nan couldn't keep up with how many we could eat.

As she got older and felt less able to do the baking, some lovely Welsh friends of hers would often bring by a tupperware full of these little cakes. We always looked forward to these times - I think it reminded my Dad of home, and it reminded the rest of us of the Welsh heritage beneath our Canadian upbringing. And they filled us to the brim with both delicious memories and, well, cake!

These aren't your typical cake. Halfway between a scone and a pancake, they're cooked on a hot stone or, in my case, a heavy skillet. Best of all, they only take a few minutes to make, so I knocked together this batch after work one day when I was in need of a pick-me-up. And they were the best batch I've made yet - but not a shred as good as Nan's.

*****

Simple Welshcakes
120 grams unsalted butter, cool but not ice cold, plus a bit more for your pan
230 grams plain flour
1 tsp. baking powder
60 grams caster sugar, plus more for sprinkling
1/4 tsp. allspice
1/8 tsp. cinnamon
100 grams sultanas
1 egg, beaten

1. Rub together the butter and flour, then stir in the sugar and spices. Mix to form a dry, loose crumb. 2. Toss in your currants and mix well. 3. Stir in your egg to form a soft dough. Handling the dough very little helps these to be lovely and soft when you eat them. Shape it into a rough disc. Wrap the dough up in some clingfilm and put it in the fridge for about 20 minutes or the freezer for 10. 4. Roll out to 1 cm in thickness on a floured surface, and cut into rounds using a circle or crinkle cutter. 5. Heat your skillet over medium-high heat, brush lightly with a bit of butter, and cook the cakes for 3 minutes on each side, or until golden. Remove gently and cool on a plate, sprinkling the finished cakes with a bit more sugar.

radish and caper penne.

2011-04-29T12:30:00.000-07:00

Oh, the insanity that ensues at the time of a royal wedding. Throngs of tourists in the streets, interrupted bus schedules, and an endless stream of Kate and Will documentaries on the telly.

Don't get me wrong - I happily watched the wedding and was just as interested in The Dress as the next girl, but a few hours in, stuck in a crowd of people in Central London, the excitement started to wear off. A couple hours later I found myself home with the rest of the day off, a little confused about what to do (the eternal problem - you get a day off and don't know what to do with it!) and had practically nothing in the kitchen to eat.

I pulled out a few radishes, my ever-present jar of capers, and a pack of penne - that could do for supper. I found some parsley, a jar of chillies, and some breadcrumbs. With lashings of olive oil, it made a nice, crisp spring supper - salty, spicy, and filling. Oh, and it's perfect for eating in front of the telly when watching the millionth hour of wedding coverage.

*****

Radish and Caper Penne

150 grams penne - I used brown rice penne
a small bunch of radishes, sliced
1 clove garlic, minced
3 tbsp. bread crumbs
1 tbsp. capers, chopped
1 tsp. chillies, minced
a handful of parsley, chopped
olive oil
parmesan
salt and pepper

1. Bring your pasta to a boil in some salted water. 2. Meanwhile, warm a good glug of olive oil in a pan and toss in your garlic, chillies, and capers, minding they don't stick or burn. Stir in your breadcrumbs, season to taste, and continue to fry until golden. 3. Toss in your radishes, half of your parsley, and a splash more oil. 4. Drain your cooked pasta, reserving a spoon full of the water, and toss the pasta and reserved water in with the breadcrumb mix. Add some more olive oil, season, and serve with rest of your parsley and some parmesan.

shortbread and maple mousse tartlets with honeyed rhubarb.

2011-04-27T00:05:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, april.

Every month, when I get my Daring Bakers challenge, I'm asked the same question by Michael. "Is it something I can eat?" Usually, almost categorically, the answer is "No." But then once in a while, much to my surprise, we're given a recipe which not only Michael can eat, but which I needn't change at all to make it suitable.

This was one of those months. A refined-sugar-free feast of light, maple-y mousse. Containing but four humble ingredients. I was very excited.

We were asked to present our mousse in an edible container - nut crusts and bacon cups were among the suggestions, and I wracked my brain for weeks trying to figure out what was right. Then it hit me. The thing Michael is always asking me to make, maple-sugar shortbread, but as a crust. A dainty little tartlet crust.

I topped the tartlets off with dawn-like pink poached rhubarb, soaked in a honey and thyme syrup, which lent a gentle, fragrant note to the tartlets. Without the rhubarb, I fear, they would be too earthenly-sweet, but the sharpness of the rhubarb picks the whole thing up and sings of springtime.

Thanks to Evelyne, a Canadian DBr, who hosted this month's challenge. I can only hope to live up to her enthusiasm as a Canadian host this December!

The April 2011 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Evelyne of the blog Cheap Ethnic Eatz. Evelyne chose to challenge everyone to make a maple mousse in an edible container. Prizes are being awarded to the most creative edible container and filling, so vote on your favorite from April 27th to May 27th at http://thedaringkitchen.com!

*****
Maple Mousse
Note: I halved this recipe when I made it, as the quantities below make a heck of a lot!

1 cup (240 ml/ 8 fluid oz.) pure maple syrup (not maple-flavoured syrup)
4 large egg yolks
1 package (7g/1 tbsp.) unflavoured gelatine - I used VegeSet, a vegetarian substitute
1 1/2 cups (360 ml. g/12 fluid oz) whipping cream (35% fat content)

1. Bring maple syrup to a boil then remove from heat.
2. In a large bowl, whisk egg yolks and pour a little bit of the maple syrup in while whisking (this is to temper your egg yolks so they don’t curdle).
3. Add warmed egg yolks to hot maple syrup until well mixed.
4. Measure 1/4 cup of whipping cream in a bowl and sprinkle it with the gelatine. Let it rest for 5 minutes. Place the bowl in a microwave for 45 seconds (microwave for 10 seconds at a time and check it in between) or place the bowl in a pan of barely simmering water, stir to ensure the gelatine has completely dissolved.
5. Whisk the gelatine/whipping cream mixture into the maple syrup mixture and set aside.
6. Whisk occasionally for approximately an hour or until the mixture has the consistency of an unbeaten raw egg white.
7. Whip the remaining cream. Stir 1/4 of the whipped cream into the maple syrup mixture. Fold in the remaining cream and refrigerate for at least an hour.
8. Remove from the fridge and divide equally among your edible containers.

Maple Shortbread Tartlet Crusts
I used silicone cupcake cases to shape these, allowing me to unmold them without losing the ridged pattern.

1/2 cup soft maple sugar
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
2 cups plain flour
plus
3 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
3 tbsp. maple syrup

1. Using a mixer, cream your butter and maple sugar until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. 2. Sift in your flour and mix with a wooden spoon to form a soft dough. It should be soft but not sticky, so add more flour, spoon by spoon, until it reaches a good consistency to form a smooth ball of dough. 3. Press your dough into a parchment lined sprinform pan, evenly smoothing it to about 1 inch in thickness. Prick all over gently with a fork and bake at 160 C (325 F) for about 20 minutes, or until light golden in colour. 4. Let cool slightly before crumbling in to a bowl. Mix with your remaining 3 tbsp. butter and maple syrup to form a nice consistency for pressing into tartlet cases. Press into molds, making the crust about 1/2 cm thick, and refrigerate overnight. Serve with maple mousse.

Honey-poached Rhubarb

2 stalks fresh rhubarb, sliced into 1 inch pieces
1/2 cup water
3 tbsp. honey
a few sprigs of thyme

1. Bring all your ingredients to slow simmer. Reduce the heat to low and allow to steep slowly until the rhubarb is tender, about 15 minutes.

simple stuffed tomatoes.

2011-04-26T11:11:00.000-07:00

These make a quick, elegant main for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. I tend to make them for myself in small batches, as shown here, when M is eating meat for dinner. Alongside some greens or grilled asparagus, a nice hunk of fresh bread, and some cheese, they make a delightful supper.

You can use whatever you like to jazz up the stuffing, including meat, but this is the simplest version. Breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, olive oil, basil, and a light dusting of parmesan brought together with fresh, sweet tomato. They are roasted ever so quickly in a hot oven, and are nicest sprinkled with just a touch of sea salt.

*****

Simple Stuffed Tomatoes
Makes enough for one serving.

2 large plum tomatoes
3 tbsp. breadcrumbs
grated parmesan
a few basil leaves, shredded
olive oil
salt and pepper

1. Gently slice off the very top of the tomatoes, only a few millimetres in, leaving you a thin 'cap' of tomato on which to rest your stuffed ones. Using a teaspoon, gently scoop out the insides of the tomatoes. 2. Mix your breadcrumbs, parmesan, tomato scoopings, and basil with a drizzle of olive oil, just until it comes together roughly. Season to taste and spoon into your tomatoes, gently pressing the stuffing in with the back of your spoon. 3. Rest atop your tomato caps if you are able, or on their sides, drizzle with olive oil, season lightly, and roast at 200 C (400F) for about 12 minutes, or until the tomato wrinkled and the stuffing is golden.

marinated tofu steaks, pan roasted asparagus, and parsley sauce.

2011-04-20T12:35:00.000-07:00

The nicest things about the weather warming up - and I mean warming... it's been 25 degrees all week - are lazy, simply suppers that highlight their ingredients. Clean flavours, and fresh, local produce make for a fantastic plate on a weeknight.

The first asparagus cropped up a couple of weeks ago at the market, so we've been eating loads of it lately. The herbs in the windowbox are starting to come up nicely, so in a few weeks those will make a lovely accompaniment to the produce. For now, I stocked up on lovely, leafy parsley from our favourite organic farm to make a classic, pared-down parsley sauce.

The tofu itself is a bit of a funny thing - I only make it like this when M has fish or meat, meaning we have a kind of meat and two veg meal. That's rare around here, but when we do I like to play my part and cook myself some kind of tofu steak. These ones are marinated in Bragg's and black pepper, breaded with white breadcrumb, and baked until golden. Served with sauteed asparagus, roasted potatoes, and parsley sauce, it certainly makes a lovely, light supper.

*****

Marinated Tofu Steaks
1 block of firm tofu, lightly pressed to release some water
3 tsbp. Bragg's
1 tbsp. tamari
3 tbsp. water
pepper
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup breadcrumbs, seasoned to taste

1. Slice your tofu into 2 cm thick slices and lay in a shallow dish. Pour over your sauces and water, seasoning with pepper, and leave to marinate for 30 minutes. 2. Preheat the oven to 200 C (400F). Take your tofu slices one at a time and dip in egg and then breadcrumbs, making sure to coat both sides. Repeat with each slice. Lay on a baking sheet and bake for twenty-five minutes, or until golden.

Parsley Sauce
1 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. plain flour
1/2 cup whole milk
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. flat leaf parsley, chopped

1. Melt your butter over low heat and stir in your flour, forming a roux. Whisk in your milk and bring to a simmer. 2. When the sauce thickens a bit, season to taste and stir in your parsley. Serve immediately.

foraging on the heath: wild garlic with rustic gnocchi.

2011-04-03T05:18:00.000-07:00

It's definitely springtime in London. It has been for a few weeks, but this weekend it's really set in. The daffodils are all up, crocuses are done blooming, the cherry trees on my road are starting to shed their flowers, and the Heath is filling out with greenery.

Early springtime is one of my favourite things about Britain. If memory serves me rightly, I remember snow in April when I lived in Canada. I remember wearing hats and scarves in May. But today I'm happy to say I've broken out cropped trousers, a light jacket, and am even going sockless!

As the weather warms up, foraging on the Heath heats up, too. In a few weeks' time I'll be out searching for St. George's mushrooms, but for now I've gathered up all the wild garlic I could find. It grows all over the Heath and, if you know where to look for it, you can find quite the haul! I'd recommend washing it well as the Heath also plays host to many dogs, but you should be able to find lots of clean, unscathed specimens!

Here, I've finely shredded the mild garlic leaves with butter, olive oil, sea salt, and pepper. Tossed with a pillowy rustic gnocchi - skins on the potatoes for simplicity, blended with Greek yoghurt for lightness - and it's a lovely, light meal.

*****

Wild Garlic with Rustic Gnocchi

4-5 medium potatoes, washed well and halved
1/2 cup Greek yoghurt
3/4 cup plain flour, or more if your dough seems too soft
A handful of wild garlic, washed well and shredded
2 tbsp. butter
2 tbsp. olive oil
parmesan cheese
salt and pepper

1. Wrap your potatoes in a large sheet of parchment and seal into a package. Place seam side down on a baking sheet and bake for an hour at 400 F (200C). 2. Once your potatoes are tender, allow to cook slightly in the parchment package. 3. Mash the potatoes well, stir in your yoghurt, season to taste, and blend in your flour. Knead to a soft dough. 4. Roll handfuls of the dough into long strips, about 1 inch in thickness. Slice off 1 inch sections to form your gnocchi, setting on a parchment-lined plate. Repeat with the rest of your dough. 5. Once you have cut all your gnocchi, you can add grooves to the gnocchi by rolling them over the back of a fork, ever so gently. 6. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, heat a pan with your butter and olive oil, tossing in your wild garlic and removing from heat. 7. Cook your gnocchi for about two minutes or until they float, remove with a slotted spoon, and toss with your garlic leaves and butter. Season and serve with parmesan.

When Meringue met Marmalade: Marmalade 'Chelsea Bun' Cake

2011-03-27T07:23:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, march.

This month's challenge was right up my alley - a yeasted coffee cake, with light bread-like cake, sweet fillings, and a lovely sugary top. We were free to pick our own flavourings, so I went for a simple, light marmalade. Inspired by my favourite kind of Chelsea buns - which aren't really Chelsea buns at all, in that they lack the fruit fillings - I went for a warm cinnamon-spiced dough with a thin layer of marmalade and meringue.

I was so touched when I read about the recipe. It was found in a collection of the host's dad's recipes from the 1970s, hand-written with no source. This, to me, is the nicest kind of recipe - old, a bit forgotten, and then reclaimed and loved by those who come along and give it a shot.

The result was quite nice, though I think mine could've been lighter. I had a bit of difficulty rolling the meringue into the dough, as it tended to slide out, but I think this was down to putting my marmalade layer on the dough first. The other way around - meringue, then marmalade - might work better in future.

With a nice cup of coffee, or indeed a cup of tea, this made a sticky, lovely breakfast or afternoon snack. It could easily be sliced before baking, arranged like cinnamon buns in a pan, though I went for the wreath-shaped cake this time.

The March 2011 Daring Baker’s Challenge was hosted by Ria of Ria’s Collection and Jamie of Life’s a Feast. Ria and Jamie challenged The Daring Bakers to bake a yeasted Meringue Coffee Cake.

*****

Ingredients
For the yeast coffee cake dough:

4 cups (600 g / 1.5 lbs.) flour
1 tsp. cinnamon
¼ cup (55 g / 2 oz.) sugar
¾ teaspoon (5 g / ¼ oz.) salt
1 package (2 ¼ teaspoons / 7 g / less than an ounce) active dried yeast
¾ cup (180 ml / 6 fl. oz.) whole milk
¼ cup (60 ml / 2 fl. oz. water (doesn’t matter what temperature)
½ cup (135 g / 4.75 oz.) unsalted butter at room temperature
2 large eggs at room temperature

10 strands saffron for Ria’s version (Saffron might be hard to find and it’s expensive, so you can substitute with ½ - 1 teaspoon of ground cardamom or ground nutmeg. Or simply leave it plain like Jamie’s version)

For the meringue:

3 large egg whites at room temperature
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon vanilla
½ cup (110 g / 4 oz.) sugar

And 1 cup of good marmalade

Directions:

In a large mixing bowl, combine 1 ½ cups (230 g) of the flour, the sugar, salt and yeast.

In a saucepan, combine the milk, water and butter and heat over medium heat until warm and the butter is just melted. Ria’s version: add the 10 saffron threads to the warmed liquid and allow to steep off of the heat for 10 minutes. This will give the mixture a distinct aroma and flavor and a yellowish-orange hue.

With an electric mixer on low speed, gradually add the warm liquid to the flour/yeast mixture, beating until well blended. Increase mixer speed to medium and beat 2 minutes. Add the eggs and 1 cup (150 g) flour and beat for 2 more minutes.

Using a wooden spoon, stir in enough of the remaining flour to make a dough that holds together. Turn out onto a floured surface (use any of the 1 ½ cups of flour remaining) and knead the dough for 8 to 10 minutes until the dough is soft, smooth, sexy and elastic, keeping the work surface floured and adding extra flour as needed.

Place the dough in a lightly greased (I use vegetable oil) bowl, turning to coat all sides. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a kitchen towel and let rise until double in bulk, 45 – 60 minutes. The rising time will depend on the type of yeast you use.

Once the dough has doubled, make the meringue:
In a clean mixing bowl – ideally a plastic or metal bowl so the egg whites adhere to the side (they slip on glass) and you don’t end up with liquid remaining in the bottom – beat the egg whites with the salt, first on low speed for 30 seconds, then increase to high and continue beating until foamy and opaque. Add the vanilla then start adding the ½ cup sugar, a tablespoon at a time as you beat, until very stiff, glossy peaks form.

Assemble the Coffee Cakes:

Line 2 baking/cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Punch down the dough and divide in half. On a lightly floured surface, working one piece of the dough at a time (keep the other half of the dough wrapped in plastic), roll out the dough into a 20 x 10-inch (about 51 x 25 ½ cm) rectangle. Spread half of the meringue evenly over the rectangle up to about 1/2-inch (3/4 cm) from the edges. Spread over half of the marmalade.

Now, roll up the dough jellyroll style, from the long side. Pinch the seam closed to seal. Very carefully transfer the filled log to one of the lined cookie sheets, seam side down. Bring the ends of the log around and seal the ends together, forming a ring, tucking one end into the other and pinching to seal.

Using kitchen scissors or a sharp knife (although scissors are easier), make cuts along the outside edge at 1-inch (2 ½ cm) intervals. Make them as shallow or as deep as desired but don’t be afraid to cut deep into the ring.

Repeat with the remaining dough, meringue and fillings.

Cover the 2 coffee cakes with plastic wrap and allow them to rise again for 45 to 60 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

Brush the tops of the coffee cakes with the egg wash. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes until risen and golden brown. The dough should sound hollow when tapped.

emove from the oven and slide the parchment paper off the cookie sheets onto the table. Very gently loosen the coffee cakes from the paper with a large spatula and carefully slide the cakes off onto cooling racks. Allow to cool.

Just before serving, dust the tops of the coffee cakes with confectioner’s sugar as well as cocoa powder if using chocolate in the filling. These are best eaten fresh, the same day or the next day.

tomato and aubergine spaghetti.

2011-03-22T14:05:00.001-07:00

Breaking one of my cardinal rules in winter-spring, I had a massive aubergine craving this week and bought one in the supermarket. I know I sound ridiculous, but I still have a strangely guilty feeling when I buy something out of season from a big shop. But once in a while, we all make exceptions.

This pasta is all about the aubergine - fried until tender in olive oil and salt, soft tomatoes, lots of garlic, and a nice handful of flat leaf parsley. It's simple, bright, and even shines without any cheese! I made it here with lovely spelt spaghetti and, I'll confess, ate the entire plate in just a few minutes. Definitely a nice lunch!

*****

100 grams kamut spaghetti
1/2 a large aubergine, diced
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
a handful of parsley, chopped
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and toss in your spaghetti. Meanwhile, over medium-high heat, fry your aubergine in a few tablespoons of olive oil. Season with salt to help it along and once fork tender, add in your garlic and tomatoes. 2. Once your vegetables begin to soften, pour in a few spoonfuls of your pasta cooking water, turn the heat down, and reduce to a light sauce. Season to taste. 3. Drain your pasta and toss into your sauce, adding your parsley, and season to taste. Serve immediately.

creamy vegetable pot pie.

2011-03-21T13:24:00.000-07:00

This is an alternative pot pie recipe to one published many years ago - but I feel like this one might just be better. It's really quick, so simple, and really rich. Dense with tender vegetables and creamy sauce, topped with crisp puff pastry, it's a comforting treat for a winter-spring night.

Here I used a combination of squash, swede, and mushrooms, but you could really use any root vegetables and throw in any greens you might like. I think peas would be especially nice with carrots, potatoes, and onions, while mushrooms and onions would be nice with a splash of ale tossed in. Do what you like with it!

*****

Vegetable Pot Pie
1/2 cup squash, diced
1/2 cup swede, diced
1/2 cup onion, diced
1/2 cup mushrooms, sliced
1 Tbsp. plain flour
1/2 a vegetable stock cube
1/4 cup water from a boiled kettle
1/2 cup whole milk
a handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped
a pinch paprika
salt and pepper
olive oil

puff pastry, rolled to 1 cm in thickness, large enough to cover your skillet
milk, for brushing

1. In a heavy ovenproof skillet, fry your vegetables for a few minutes in a bit of olive oil. Once they start to soften, stir in your flour and toss in your stock cube. Pour over your boiled water and mash your stock cube and stir well, making sure the flour gets mixed in. 2. Add in your milk, stirring to form a thick sauce. Allow to simmer on low until the vegetables are tender. Season with parsley, paprika, salt, and pepper, and set aside to cool for a few minutes. 3. Top your skillet with puff pastry, tucking the ends over and pressing down with your fingers. I like to run my knife across the top of the pie to create very slight marks in a cross pattern, but you can do what you like. Brush with milk and bake for 25 minutes, or until brown, at 400 degrees F (200 C).

lentil shepherd's pie.

2011-03-19T09:51:00.001-07:00

There's something so wonderful about old standbys. Things we ate as children, things we know so well, and things that are so simple to go back to. Comfort foods.

I grew up with one British parent and one Chinese one in the middle of suburban Canada. We ate a lot of things from each culture (we ate a lot of things in general!) but I remember shepherd's pie being around a lot. And for my dad, the recipe was a matter of strict discipline - lamb, obviously, was the meat used in shepherd's pie. Or else it was just cottage pie.

I became a vegetarian when I was 14, so that spelled the end of my shepherd's pie eating days. But somewhere during my time at university, it made a comeback. A big one. I think I made it every week for a while. With lentils.

This is my go-to standby shepherd's pie: a tomato and Bragg's-rich gravy with lentils and vegetables, topped with mashed potatoes, peas, cheese, and mustard. But I made one small addition: I mashed some chunks of cauliflower into my mash this time around, which gave it the most wonderfully virtuous lightness. Delicious.

*****

Lentil Shepherd's Pie

1 cup dried red lentils, rinsed.
1 onion, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 carrot or 1/2 cup swede, diced
1 sprig each of thyme and rosemary, chopped
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
3 tbsp. nice ketchup
2 tsp. Bragg's
1 cup vegetable stock
1/4 cup frozen peas
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. Bring your lentils to a boil in 2 cups of water and turn down to low heat to simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. In a heavy ovenproof skillet, fry your onions, garlic, carrots, and herbs until translucent and fragrant. Stir in your tomatoes, ketchup, and Bragg's and continue to cook for a minute or so. Pour over your vegetable stock, season, and bring to a simmer. 2. Meanwhile, check your lentils and, once they're done, drain them. Stir the lentils into your sauce and let simmer until thickened, about 10 minutes. Check for seasoning once more, and at this point stir in your peas. The sauce should be thick, not to runny, and should be densely populated with lentils and veg. Set aside.

Potato topping:
4 medium floury potatoes, chopped
1/2 cup cauliflower florets
1/2 cup cheddar cheese, grated
1 tsp. English mustard
1 Tbsp. butter
1/4 cup milk
1/2 cup peas
salt and pepper

1. Bring your potatoes to a boil in a large pot of water. Cook until almost tender, then add in your cauliflower. Once both are cooked through, drain. 2. Mash with your cheese, mustard, butter, and milk, seasoning to taste. Once you have a smooth consistency, stir in your frozen peas (these will cook under the grill).

Assembly and Baking:

1. Top your lentil mixture with an inch or two of the potato mash. You can leave it in whatever shape it falls or you can shape peaks with your fork, whatever you like. Dot the top with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake in a hot oven at 400 degrees F (200 C) for 30-40 minutes, or until hot inside and the potato is crisp and golden on top.

fluffy buckwheat pancakes.

2011-03-09T01:00:00.000-08:00

You might say I've been on a bit of a pancake trip. But I blame it on genetics or origins: my Chinese grandparents were always eating thin, sugary Chinese pancakes on weekends; my Canadian upbringing instilled the deepest love of maple syrup and fluffy, golden pancakes; and once, at the age of 16, I cajoled my big sister into making me a birthday cake entirely constructed of crêpes suzette, complete with a burning candle of Grand Marnier.

Those familiar with my household will know how much maple syrup we go through - at times, a 500 ml bottle won't get us through the week. I used to buy it in gallon sized bottles, not so easy to come by in the UK, unfortunately! And I even, to top it all off, started the Maple Syrup fanpage on Facebook. That's how much I love maple syrup.

Syrup on everything - salads, stirfrys, cakes, and best of all, fluffy buckwheat pancakes. These pancakes are nutty, light, and thick - doused with butter and maple syrup they make the heartiest of breakfasts. They almost make me think I should be cooking up grits, corned beef hash, and fried eggs to go with them. And all in some big cast iron skillet on some faraway, rustic porch.

But on a lazy day in the middle of London, they can have the same effect. Enriching, nostalgic, and filling, just like a big country breakfast.

*****

Buckwheat Pancakes
1 cup buckwheat flour
1 cup plain flour
1 tsp. baking soda (bicarb)
1/2 tsp. salt
1 egg
1/4 cup oil
1 1/2 cups of milk (or enough to fill up to 2 cups)

1. Preheat a skillet over medium heat. In a bowl or jug, whisk together your dry ingredients. 2. In a clean jug, whisk together your egg, oil, and milk, filling the jug up to about 2 cups in total. 3. Mix your wet ingredients into your dry, beating until smooth. 4. Pop a tiny spoonful of butter in your skillet and pour in a ladleful of batter. Cook until bubbles appear in the centre of the pancake and it is golden on one side before flipping. Continue to cook until the second side is golden. Repeat with the rest of the batter, and serve with butter, maple syrup, honey, or fruit.

potato pancake day.

2011-03-08T01:00:00.000-08:00

I must admit, I seem to have forgotten about Pancake Day for a few years. I remember it being a big deal as a child - we'd all have pancake lunches at school and then go home to find that our parents thought we should have pancakes for dinner, which, in most circumstances, is a lot of pancake. But then... crickets. I forgot this day existed. Until this year, when I became acutely aware that the British seem to really like Pancake Day. There's even a run-up to Pancake Day, awash with recipe tips and competitions for the best pancake recipe.

So all this fuss over pancakes got me thinking a lot about, well, pancakes. What kinds do I like? Paper-thin English ones, sprinkled with sugar, or thick, fluffy American ones, doused with maple syrup? Crepes? Latkes? I love all of these. So to start my celebrations early, I made an enormous, crispy, golden batch of potato pancakes. Layered with fried apple and drizzled with Greek yoghurt - the best kind of brunch.

So tell me - what are you eating for pancake day? Classic 'cakes or something more adventurous? Let me know and I just may have to make some more myself.

*****

Potato Pancakes (gluten-free)
Makes enough for two.
2 large potatoes, grated
1/2 onion, grated
3 tbsp. buckwheat flour
a pinch paprika
1 tsp. salt
pepper
1 egg, beaten
3 tbsp. milk
olive oil

1. Squeeze the water out of your potatoes and then place the potatoes in a bowl. Add in your onions, buckwheat, paprika, and seasoning and mix well. Stir in your egg and milk until you have a smooth potato batter - it should be very thick. 2. In a hot pan, heat some olive oil and drop heaped spoonfuls of your mixture in to fry. Flatten the spoonfuls into small discs about 1 cm in thickness. After about three minutes or once golden on the bottom, flip and continue to fry until the other side is golden brown. Serve with yoghurt and fried apples.

butterbean and noodle soup.

2011-03-06T10:57:00.001-08:00

I've been battling a cold for a few days, and as always, have been consuming insane amounts of soup. At one point this weekend, I was heating up one kind of soup while cooking another - both of which were eaten within a couple of hours. When I'm sat on the sofa, bad television blaring into the flat, all I like to do is eat. And I give everything a dose of chili, ginger, and garlic to help with the sniffles.

But this soup... this soup is a bit like being a kid. Simple, warm, salty - it is probably the closest thing I have to chicken noodle soup. The beans add a thickness to the broth, and the final dusting of parmesan a wonderful salty, nuttiness. The noodles round it out as a meal, and the soft vegetables remind me of being a child, eating soup and marveling at the lovely cube-shapes of all the vegetables. And this soup is very quick to make - meaning you can go from hunger to satisfaction in about 40 minutes.

*****

1 onion, diced
1 carrot, diced
1/2 cup celeriac or swede, whatever's on hand, diced
3 cups vegetable stock
50 grams spaghetti noodles, broken
2 tomatoes, diced
1 tin butter beans, drained
1/2 cup cavalo nero/kale, shredded
parmesan cheese
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. In a heavy pan over medium heat, fry your onion in a bit of oil. Once translucent, add in your carrot and celeriac, then pour over your stock. Bring to a simmer. 2. Add in your noodles and continue to cook until they are tender. Season to taste. 3. Stir in your tomatoes, beans, and kale, season once again, and continue to cook until slightly thickened, about ten minutes. Serve with parmesan dusted over the top.

wild mushroom risotto with celeriac crisps.

2011-03-01T14:35:00.000-08:00

I'm guilty of having been fairly absent from the blog over the past month. I've been working like crazy lately and every spare moment (and meal, for that matter) has been enjoyed swiftly, without much time or attention, before moving onto the next task. It not only creates a bit of a gap here at the blog - I suddenly notice that I'm tired, stressed, and completely missing my usual routine of cook, photograph, savour.

Last week, however, I actually had a spare evening to enjoy a warming dinner with a friend. We ate the recently featured lavender panna cotta, but before that we chowed down on a big bowl each of rich, earthy mushroom risotto. Topped off with delicate, sharply flavoured celeriac crisps, it made a simple dinner for the end of a long week.

*****
Wild Mushroom Risotto

1 cup arborio rice, rinsed
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp. thyme, finely chopped
2 cups mixed wild mushrooms, roughly chopped according to size and shape (chop field mushrooms, leave things like oyster mushrooms in slices, etc.)
1 parmesan rind
3 cups vegetable stock, hot
a handful of spinach, torn
olive oil
salt and pepper

1. In a large heavy pan, heat some olive oil over medium heat. Gently fry the onions, garlic, and thyme, before stirring in your mushrooms to cook down a bit. 2. After five minutes or so, season your mushroom mixture and stir in your rice, making sure it doesn't stick. When glossy, pour over a ladleful of warm stock and stir. 3. Add in your parmesan rind and continue to add stock, stirring frequently, until the risotto is tender, after about 30 minutes. 4. Stir in the spinach, remove your parmesan rind, season to taste, and serve.

Celeriac Crisps
Make as much as you need.

celeriac, peeled
olive oil
salt and pepper

1. Shave celeriac into translucent shavings using a sharp knife or peeler. Toss lightly with olive oil and salt and pepper, and lay in a single layer on a baking sheet. 2. Bake at 160 C (375 F) until crisp.

spring is on the way: lavender panna cotta with honey almond florentines.

2011-02-27T05:36:00.001-08:00

daring bakers, february.

Panna cotta is a tricky thing to wrap your head around - at once jellied and creamy, I'm never sure if I like it. But as I sit writing with a plate of this subtly-fragranced lavender pudding, I think I might be convinced. It's simple, light, creamy, and gently floral. And oh-so-easy.

I must admit, I do find it a bit weird. Being vegetarian, the thought of adding gelatin to most things puts me off, but to milk? Especially weird. I used agar here to good effect and was pleased to see it set in about half the time gelatin would need. And to top it off, I made it sugar-free, using only honey to sweeten. Milk and honey are a combination with which I'm very comfortable.

I'll admit, I wasn't thrilled with the original florentine recipe we were given for the challenge. For a number of reasons, I decided to go in another direction. The florentines here are lacey, crisp, and gently sweet, painted with a thin coating of white chocolate. Lemon zest and almonds fill out the sugary basis of the cookies - paired with the mild panna cotta, they add exactly the right touch of sweetness. Pretty satisfying with a cup of tea, as well!

Blog-checking lines: The February 2011 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Mallory from A Sofa in the Kitchen. She chose to challenge everyone to make Panna Cotta from a Giada De Laurentiis recipe and Nestle Florentine Cookies.

*****

Lavender Panna Cotta
I halved this recipe when I made it, but these quantities will give you about 8 servings

1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
2 tablespoons dried lavender
2 tablespoons agar (vegetarian gelatin)
3 cups double cream
1/3 cup honey
pinch of salt

1. Warm your milk gently and stir in your lavender, setting aside to soak for about ten minutes. 2. Strain the flowers out, and then
pour the milk into the saucepan and place over medium heat on the stove. Heat this mixture until it is hot, but not boiling, about five minutes.
3. Next, add the cream, honey, sugar, salt, and agar. Whisk to combine. Making sure the mixture doesn't boil, continue to heat and stir occasionally for about three minutes.
4. Remove from heat, allow it to sit for a few minutes to cool slightly. Then pour into the glass or ramekin.
5. Refrigerate at least 3 hours or overnight. Garnish with lavender sugar or lavender buds, if desired.

Honey and Almond Florentines
Roughly adapted from Nigella Lawson's How To Be A Domestic Goddess. Makes about 30 florentines.

100 grams sliced almonds
1 tsp. chopped lemon peel
2 tbsp. butter
3 tsbp. sugar
3 tsbp. honey
2 tbsp. plain flour
150 ml. double cream
100 grams white chocolate, chopped

1. In a heavy pan, melt your butter, sugar, and honey until smooth. Stir in your flour to form a paste, then remove from heat and whisk in your cream. Once the mixture is smooth, stir in your almonds and lemon peel.
2. Drop heaped tablespoons on the mixture on a baking sheet lined with greaseproof, leaving lots of room between them as they will spread. Bake at 190 C (about 375 F) for about 5-8 minutes, or until golden on the edges. Leave to cool for a few minutes before lifting, gently, with a palette knife onto another tray to cool fully.
3. Once the florentines are cool, melt your white chocolate in a double boiler. Paint the bottoms of each florentine, or drizzle if you prefer, with white chocolate. Allow to set before serving.

chicory au gratin.

2011-02-24T14:00:00.000-08:00

I'm a big fan of bitter greens. Kale, chard, rocket, chicory. Many seem to pop up when the weather is still cool, and while they certainly hold their own in a simple sauté, they really become a meal in a dish like this.

Chicory au gratin - endive, for the North Americans - salty, creamy, and slightly peppery. Warming, but not too filling, it makes an ideal side dish or a simple meal with some sliced sourdough bread. The bitterness of the chicory is balanced by the saltiness of the cream sauce, but not entirely muted - that's part of the appeal of bitter greens, anyhow.

*****

2 heads of chicory, washed and sliced in half, bottoms trimmed
1 cup whole milk
1 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. flour
1 clove garlic, minced
a pinch of allspice
3 tbsp. parmesan, grated
olive oil
salt and pepper

1. In a small saucepan, melt your butter and stir in your flour, forming a roux. Whisk in your milk and bring to a simmer until thick. Stir in your garlic and allspice, and season to taste. Set aside. 2. In a frying pan over medium heat, fry your chicory in a little olive oil until it just begins to look glossy, but not entirely translucent, about a minute per side. 3. In an ovenproof dish, line your chicory end to end and pour over your cream sauce. Top with the parmesan and bake at 200 C (400 F) for twenty minutes, or until golden and bubbling.

cardamom and almond buns.

2011-02-07T07:00:00.000-08:00

I love spiced buns. Cinnamon, pulla, cardamom. All things I'd happily have with a cup of coffee any afternoon.

These buns are simple - they take very little time to make, are cake-like and sweet, and almost floral with cardamom and a hint of almond. And they're easily adapted - throw in a bit of cinnamon, allspice, or saffron and you'd have something completely different. Add some sultanas and they've gotten even more interesting.

*****

180ml whole milk
50 grams butter, cubed
120 grams caster sugar
½ tsp salt
1 tsp ground cardamom
1/4 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. allspice
1 egg
400 grams plain flour
40 grams ground almonds
7g sachet fast-acting yeast
1/2 cup icing sugar, mixed with 2 tbsp. water
1/4 cup almonds, crushed

1. Mix together your milk, butter, sugar, salt, and spices in a saucepan and heat gently. Once the butter is melted, cool to room temperature, then beat in your egg. 2. In a large bowl, sift together your flour, almonds, and yeast, then stir in your milk mixture and combine to a smooth dough. 3. Knead for about ten minutes, or until elastic, then place in an oiled bowl and cover with clingfilm. Leave to proof until doubled in size, about an hour. 4. Knock back your dough and roll out to 1/2 inch in thickness. Slice into 1 inch strips, and then wrap a strip at a time around your finger to form a rolled-up bun shape. Place on a greased baking sheet, cover, and leave to proof again for about 30 minutes. 5. Bake at 360 F (about 180 C) until golden, about 30 minutes. Let cool, and then glaze with your icing and almonds.

the ultimate weekend skillet.

2011-02-06T06:34:00.000-08:00

There's nothing quite as comforting as Sunday brunch. Whether out with friends or tucked onto the sofa at home, it's the perfect meal to relax to - not too early, not too late, and just the right mix of breakfast and lunch. I really love brunch.

Best are the meals that take as little effort as you want to give on a Sunday. For me, that means very little. One pan, ideally. No more than 20 minutes, thanks. And I want it to be filling, flavourful, and packed with fresh vegetables, potatoes, and eggs.

That's exactly what this skillet is - crispy fried potato and onion, a layer of shredded greens, a baked egg, tomatoes, toast, cheese, and avocado. All in one, and all in about twenty minutes. I'd say one skillet can easily feed one or two people, just add more eggs as needed. The toast is tossed into the skillet just before going into the oven, where it crisps up as the bright egg sets ever so softly. Cool avocado just before serving adds the most indulgent creaminess to the dish. A keeper in my books.

On a final note, I designed this recipe for Petra, who is currently living in Honduras, where she tells me she can only get the ingredients used in this recipe. Petra, this one's for you - hopefully you can get everything you need!

*****

Potato and Egg Skillet with Avocado
Serves 1, but can serve more with more eggs.

1 potato, finely diced
1/2 onion, finely diced
1 leaf of savoy cabbage or other greens, shredded
1 egg
1 tomato, quartered
1 slice of sourdough bread, halved
1/8 cup grated cheddar cheese
1/2 avocado, diced
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 200 C (400 F). In a cast iron skillet or a heavy, oven-proof frying pan, heat some olive oil over medium-high heat. Toss in your potatoes and onions and fry for about 5 minutes, until golden. This works best if you don't move them around, but wait until they're crisped up before turning them. 2. Turn your potatoes and season to taste. 3. Spread your cabbage over the potatoes in a thin layer. Toss in 2 tbsp. of water and cover immediately, allowing the cabbage to steam very quickly. It should be done within a minute or so. 4. Remove the skillet from heat and toss in your tomatoes, season again, and make a small well for your egg. Pour in your egg, tuck in your bread, and pop it in the oven until the egg sets, about 8 minutes. 5. Serve with grated cheese and diced avocado.

braised nian gao (rice cake) with cabbage and mushroom + simple congee

2011-02-05T11:29:00.000-08:00

I've been having cravings all week. It started with the noodles, then with a big wokfull of braised tofu and nian gao, spring rolls, and sponge cake. I couldn't stop myself anymore: I had to have more. Chinese food, that is.

Sometimes I think it's genetic. I have a built-in Chinese food craving. My body is designed to eat rice, dumplings, tofu. But even if it weren't genetic, I'd probably still crave it just as much. It's just so good.

But this weekend I've been craving something simpler - something classic. Plain ol' congee, a soupy rice porridge, with spring onion and pepper. Nothing more, nothing less. It's purely comforting and always reminds me of being a kid at the dim sum table. And it's easy.

I finished off the pack of dried rice cakes leftover from new years as well. Nian gao are basically slices of rice flour dough, which you can soak and then add to stirfrys and braised dishes. Here, they were braised with cabbage, chinese mushrooms, dried seaweed, sliced beancurd sheets (also dried and soaked before using), and spring onion. Fragrant five space permeates the air as the dish cooks and then fills your bowl with flavour when you dish it out.

Nian gao and beancurd sheets can both be found at the Chinese grocer or in China Town. Depending on your brand of rice cake, you might need to soak them longer, but it's very straightforward - they're done when they're tender and al dente, like pasta. Definitely worth a trip to Soho.

*****

Plain Congee
Makes enough for four.
1 cup short grain white rice
water
salt
spring onions, to serve
white or black pepper, to serve

1. Rinse your rice, and then bring it to a boil in a big saucepan with about 3 cups of water. 2. When the rice is tender, after about 15 minutes, pour in 1 cup more boiling water, and let simmer for 1 hour, checking periodically for water-level. 3. After about an hour and a half, season with salt to taste. Add more water if necessary - it should have the consistency of a thick soup. Serve with pepper and chopped spring onions.

Braised Nian Gao with Cabbage and Mushroom
Serves 3-4.

150 grams nian gao, soaked in hot water and drained
1/2 onion, sliced
1 carrot, sliced
1 cup savoy cabbage, shredded
1 cup dried Chinese mushroom, soaked and chopped, liquid reserved
1/2 cup dried wakame, soaked and chopped
3 spring onions, chopped
1 beancurd sheet, soaked and sliced
3 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. brown rice vinegar
1 tbsp. five spice powder
1 tsp. chopped chili
1 tsp. cornstarch, dissolved in water
pepper

1. In a bowl, mix together your sauces, spice, and chili. In a large wok, heat a bit of oil. Fry your onions and carrots for one minute, then stir in your nian gao. Immediately pour over your sauce mixture and add in your reserved mushroom liquid, straining it. 2. Bring to a simmer, then add your cabbage, mushroom, and seaweed. Cook for 5 minutes, then add your spring onions and beancurd. Season to taste and stir in your cornstarch. Simmer for another 3 minutes, checking that your nian gao are tender. Serve immediately.

happy new year noodles & chinese tea eggs.

2011-02-02T01:00:00.000-08:00

Gōng Xǐ Fā Cái! Wishing all of you a very happy Year of the Rabbit!

Being half-Chinese, Chinese New Year was always a special treat. I got to have a holiday a lot of my friends didn't have... yet it still seemed special and different to me because I grew up in a mixed household. I celebrated odd Welsh holidays, Canadian ones, and Chinese ones. And they all had their special traditions.

Every year, my mom would have a big dinner for Chinese New Year. Hotpot with omelet parcels, bok choy, hot bean sauce, and noodles. Of course, there were carnivorous treats for the meat-eaters. But she always made me my own special pot. No meat allowed, instead I stuffed it with greens, wontons, and beancurd. Delicious.

Being in the UK, I wasn't able to make it to my mom's New Year's dinner. Instead, I've made myself a few small treats - Happy New Year Noodles, which mustn't be cut because they represent longevity, and Chinese Tea Eggs, because they remind me of my late maternal grandfather, Kung, who used to make them for me as a child. Tea eggs represent rebirth for the new year.

The noodles themselves are very straightforward. Sweet and tangy in a tamarind and soy sauce, with loads of beansprouts and carrots for crunch. The eggs are simmered in black tea, soy sauce, and star anise, lending them a subtly warm flavour and marbling them with a beautiful pattern of tea. I realise these sound weird, but trust me - if you like hard boiled egg, these just have the dial turned up. Salty, earthy, and warm. Just give them a try.

*****

Happy New Year Noodles

2 cups egg noodles, cooked, rinsed, and drained
1 carrot, julienned
1 small onion, sliced
2 tbsp. tamarind paste
1 tbsp. apricot jam or plum jam
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. brown rice vinegar
1 sliced red chili
1 cup beansprouts
a handful of coriander, chopped
vegetable oil

1. In a wok, fry your carrots and onions in oil over high heat. 2. Meanwhile, mix your tamarind into a splash of boiling water. Seive, and mix the rest of the liquid ingredients and jam into your sauce. 3. Continue frying the carrots and onion, and when tender, toss in your noodles and chili, and pour over your sauce. Heat evenly, then toss through your beansprouts. Serve with coriander.

Chinese Tea Eggs
3-4 eggs
2 black tea bags (I actually used twig tea [bancha], which was lovely)
2 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. sugar
1 star anise

1. Hard boil your eggs in water until cooked. Meanwhile, brew your tea in 2 cups of water and mix with the other ingredients. 2. Drain your eggs and gently crack the shell, rolling to create cracks all over the surface. 3. Return the eggs to the saucepan and add in your tea mixture. Bring to a simmer and cover, cooking for 1-3 hours, depending on how strong you want the eggs.

cheddar muffins with fennel, apple, and claytonia salad.

2011-01-30T01:00:00.000-08:00

Blustery January mornings really put a damper on things. Especially Saturdays, when I like to take my time browsing, shopping, and chatting at the farmers' market. Scratch that, I love spending my Saturdays this way. But when it's completely grey, bone-chillingly cold, or, worse, raining, one needs a little extra incentive.

This week, it came in the form of a lunchtime treat - a fluffy cheddar muffin from Greens of Glastonbury, the most fantastic cheddar producer I've found. That, warmed in the oven, paired with a light salad of claytonia, a watercress-like green from Wild Country Organics, with shaved fennel, and apples made the most uplifting plateful.

*****

Fennel, Apple, and Claytonia Salad
Watercress or baby spinach could easily be used in this salad if you can't get claytonia.

1 cup claytonia, washed
1/2 bulb fennel, shaved thinly
1/2 sharp apple, sliced thinly
olive oil
brown rice vinegar
salt

Toss together and enjoy!

celeriac and green lentil soup.

2011-01-29T04:19:00.001-08:00

I'm a big fan of weekend newspapers. I try my best to get through the Saturday Guardian and The Observer most weeks, but most of all love hunkering down with the magazines that come with. Best is the Observer Food Monthly, which I spend weeks pining for and inevitably rush out to the newsagents to buy on the third week of the month.

Something about an entire magazine full of good food content - for the general public! There's an actual food culture in this country and it's oft celebrated. I love that.

In the January issue of OFM, Nigel Slater published an absolutely moreish looking Celeriac and Bacon Soup. Not being a bacon eater, I've adapted it here using earthy green lentils. I also threw in some carrots and a potato for good measure. The soup is thick, slow-cooking, and delightfully hearty. A total treat.

Nigel Slater's recipe can be found here.

*****

2 onions, chopped
butter - 2 tbsp.
one celeriac, peeled and finely chopped or grated
3 sprigs of thyme
500 ml. vegetable stock
1 carrot, chopped
1 potato, chopped
1 cup green lentils, soaked and precooked for one hour, drained
1 litre water
4 tsp. grainy mustard
salt and pepper

In a big saucepan, sauté your onions in butter until soft. Once they are translucent, stir in your celeriac and thyme. Add your stock a bit at a time, scraping the pan, and bring to a boil. Add in your carrot, potato, lentils, and water, and continue to cook for another hour, seasoning to taste. Part way through, check for seasoning and stir in your mustard. After the lentils are cooked through, remove half of the soup and blitz until smooth, and then stir this back into the soup. Reheat over low, and serve.

vanilla coffee entremet with a cocoa joconde.

2011-01-27T01:00:00.000-08:00

A few month's back, my good friend Ruby invited me to her house for chocolate. Quite why, I wasn't sure, for chocolate is rarely the main event in our social schedule. (Though my domestic schedule is a little different...) But I was quickly put in my place. Ruby handed me a single chocolate truffle, enrobed in white chocolate with a dusting of sweet coffee over the top. I bit in to reveal a smooth coffee centre, nutty cappuccino notes marrying with the not-to-sweet white chocolate. This was surely the taste of love.

Said truffle was a Charbonnel et Walker Cappuccino Truffle and has since become a mainstay of my frequent trips down to New Bond Street. Instead of oggling shoes and diamond jewelry, I stop off at Charbonnel for my hit of fancy chocolate. Forget macarons. Forget cupcakes. This single truffle is all I need to feel pampered, at ease, and a little bit indulgent.

When we received our Daring Bakers challenge for this month, a wave of panic took over. "We're supposed to make a joconde imprimé/entremet? I can't even translate these words, though I speak French pretty well!" said my brain. I didn't know what to do. So I took a break from the computer, put the kettle on, and took a bite of a cappuccino truffle.

It hit me. This was the flavour. Coffee. White chocolate. And something else. In a cake, it would need something else. I remembered Pierre Hermé's vanilla tart, which I'd been trying to get up the nerve to make for months. I remembered it had this incredible, silky smooth vanilla glaze. So I started sketching ideas. The cake would have a cocoa joconde stripe around the sides with a coffee genoise cake inside, layered with vanilla and coffee mousse. The glaze would be Pierre Hermé's, minus the whitening titanium dioxide. White chocolate would marry the mousse and the glaze, creating a cake-sized ode to the cappuccino truffle.

In truth, the cake was no where near as good as the truffle itself. The genoise wasn't great, and I probably won't use that recipe again, but I loved the mousse and the glaze. The joconde was surprisingly delicious, and a few rings of it would have made a much nicer cake filling than the genoise. But was it worth it? Yes, yes, yes. The glaze was a marvel to behold, though not for the faint-hearted, and I'll be looking for ways to make it again all year long. The mousse was so delicate and vanilla-flecked, without too much sweetness. The final dusting of coffee with sugar and cocoa added the most indulgent touch to the whole cake, a bit like eating the chocolatey bit of a tiramisu, but infinitely more refined. And the plus? In the end, I just had to go down to Charbonnel to buy some truffles, because I couldn't very well talk about it and not show you a picture, right?

The January 2011 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Astheroshe of the blog accro. She chose to challenge everyone to make a Biscuit Joconde Imprime to wrap around an Entremets dessert.

*****

White Chocolate Mousse (to which I added a splash of coffee) is here: http://www.pastrypal.com/2010/12/white-chocolate-raspberry-tart-and-how-i-pissed-off-the-whole-town/

The Coffee Genoise is here: http://www.passionateaboutbaking.com/2010/11/baking-espresso-coffee-cream-cake-happy-birthday-to-me.html

Pierre Hermé's Vanilla Glaze is here: http://kitchenmusings.com/2009/07/pierre-hermes-vanilla-tart.html

Joconde Sponge

YIELD: Two ½ size sheet pans or a 13” x 18” (33 x 46 cm) jelly roll pan

Ingredients:
¾ cup/ 180 ml/ 3oz/ 85g almond flour/meal - *You can also use hazelnut flour, just omit the butter
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons/ 150 ml/ 2⅔ oz/ 75g confectioners' (icing) sugar
¼ cup/ 60 ml/ 1 oz/ 25g cake flour *See note below
3 large eggs - about 5⅓ oz/ 150g
3 large egg whites - about 3 oz/ 90g
2½ teaspoons/ 12½ ml/ ⅓ oz/ 10g white granulated sugar or superfine (caster) sugar
2 tablespoons/ 30 ml/ 1oz / 30g unsalted butter, melted

*Note: How to make cake flour: http://www.joythebaker.com/blog/2009/09/how-to-make-cake-flour/

Directions:

In a clean mixing bowl whip the egg whites and white granulated sugar to firm, glossy peeks. Reserve in a separate clean bowl to use later.
Sift almond flour, confectioner’s sugar, cake flour. (This can be done into your dirty egg white bowl)
On medium speed, add the eggs a little at a time. Mix well after each addition. Mix until smooth and light. (If using a stand mixer use blade attachment. If hand held a whisk attachment is fine, or by hand. )
Fold in one third reserved whipped egg whites to almond mixture to lighten the batter. Fold in remaining whipped egg whites. Do not over mix.
Fold in melted butter.
Reserve batter to be used later.

Patterned Joconde-Décor Paste

YIELD: Two ½ size sheet pans or a 13” x 18” (33 x 46 cm) jelly roll pan

Ingredients
14 tablespoons/ 210ml/ 7oz/ 200g unsalted butter, softened
1½ cups plus1½ tablespoons/ 385ml/ 7oz/ 200g Confectioners' (icing) sugar
7 large egg whites - about 7 oz / 200g
1¾ cup/ 420ml/ 7¾ oz/ 220g cake flour
Food coloring gel, paste or liquid

COCOA Décor Paste Variation: Reduce cake flour to 6 oz / 170g. Add 2 oz/ 60 g cocoa powder. Sift the flour and cocoa powder together before adding to creamed mixture.

Directions:

Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy (use stand mixer with blade, hand held mixer, or by hand)
Gradually add egg whites. Beat continuously.
Fold in sifted flour.
Tint batter with coloring to desired color, if not making cocoa variation.
Preparing the Joconde- How to make the pattern:

Spread a thin even layer of décor paste approximately 1/4 inch (5 millimeter) thick onto silicone baking mat with a spatula, or flat knife. Place mat on an upside down baking sheet. The upside down sheet makes spreading easier with no lip from the pan.
Pattern the décor paste – Here is where you can be creative. Make horizontal /vertical lines (you can use a knife, spatula, cake/pastry comb). Squiggles with your fingers, zig zags, wood grains. Be creative whatever you have at home to make a design can be used. OR use a piping bag. Pipe letters, or polka dots, or a piped design. If you do not have a piping bag. Fill a ziplock bag and snip off corner for a homemade version of one.

Slide the baking sheet with paste into the freezer. Freeze hard. Approx 15 minutes.

Remove from freezer. Quickly pour the Joconde batter over the design. Spread evenly to completely cover the pattern of the Décor paste.

Bake at 475ºF /250ºC until the joconde bounces back when slightly pressed, approx. 15 minutes. You can bake it as is on the upside down pan. Yes, it is a very quick bake, so watch carefully.
Cool. Do not leave too long, or you will have difficulty removing it from mat.
Flip cooled cake on to a powdered sugared parchment paper. Remove silpat. Cake should be right side up, and pattern showing! (The powdered sugar helps the cake from sticking when cutting.)

Cutting and Assembling the Joconde:

Trim the cake of any dark crispy edges. You should have a nice rectangle shape.
Decide how thick you want your “Joconde wrapper”. Traditionally, it is ½ the height of your mold. This is done so more layers of the plated dessert can be shown. However, you can make it the full height.
Once your height is measured, then you can cut the cake into equal strips, of height and length. (Use a very sharp paring knife and ruler. Make sure your strips are cut cleanly and ends are cut perfectly straight. Press the cake strips inside of the mold, decorative side facing out. Once wrapped inside the mold, overlap your ends slightly. You want your Joconde to fit very tightly pressed up to the sides of the mold. Then gently push and press the ends to meet together to make a seamless cake. The cake is very flexible so you can push it into place. You can use more than one piece to “wrap“ your mold, if one cut piece is not long enough. The mold is done, and ready to fill.

salad of fennel, cabbage, and apple in a mustard dressing.

2011-01-25T08:44:00.000-08:00

Quick, homemade lunches are like gold around here - I work partly from home, so often find myself in the kitchen with twenty minutes for lunch before needing to go back out into the world. I've discovered how much can be cooked in twenty minutes - pastas, soups, omelets, and fried sandwiches are mainstays. This salad, however, makes a light, sharply flavoured addition to the roster.

Thin slices of fennel are tossed with a bit of braised cabbage, sliced apples, and a dijon vinaigrette. The anise-flavour of the fennel is matched by the sweetness of apple and the sharpness of the mustard. The cabbage adds a basenote of flavour and bulk, making this salad filling enough, with maybe a slice of toast, for a proper lunch. Salty shavings of parmesan over the top add umami-loaded bite to the whole thing.

Here I used a combination of savoy and brussels sprouts tops for the cabbage, but I expect most cabbages would do nicely. The apples were the sharp, juicy "Evita" apples sold by Brambletye Fruit Farms, who sell their biodynamic fruit at most London Farmers' Markets.

*****

1 cup cabbage, shredded
1 bulb fennel, sliced thinly
1 apple, cored and sliced thinly
1 tbsp. dijon mustard
3 tbsp. olive oil
1 tsp. brown rice vinegar (though I expect apple cider vinegar would be nice, too)
1 tsp. honey
salt and pepper
parmesan, for shaving over top

1. Add your cabbage to some oil in a hot pan and fry for 1 minute. Toss in a splash of water and pop a lid on the pan, turning the heat down. 2. Meanwhile, mix your dressing together in a big bowl and season to taste. 3. Your cabbage should cook in about 3 minutes or so, the time it takes to prep your fennel and apple. Toss all the ingredients together and serve with some parmesan and fennel fronds over the top.

chickpea and cauliflower curry.

2011-01-24T08:18:00.000-08:00

I am loath to call any dish, straight-up, "a curry". It rings of a very Western sensibility about Indian and South Asian cooking, of some idea that anything combining spices in sauce constitutes a curry. But in this case, I really lack any vocabulary for this dish. It's not quite chana masala, though it does feature chickpeas in a nice garam masala laced sauce, and it's not quite aloo gobi, for it lacks the potato starchiness. But it does feature a hearty, fragrant blend of cauliflower, chili, coriander, and ginger. If anyone would like to point me in the right direction, please do.

I knocked this up fairly quickly using what I had on hand. I had a bit of swede (that's turnip, to the Americans/Canadians amongst us) left-over from the day before, so used that in place of carrots. I used tinned chickpeas and some tinned tomatoes, but you could easily use fresh tomatoes. I like to buy chickpeas in water with no salt added, as I hate finding out that extra salt's been packed into my perishables!

Served over a bed of hot, nutty brown rice with a good handful of coriander, it's a warm, filling treat on a winter's night.

*****

1 onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 inch knob garlic, grated
1 tbsp. cumin seeds
1 tbsp. coriander powder
1 tbsp. garam masala
1 red chilli, finely diced
1/2 tin chopped tomatoes
1 cup cauliflower, roughly chopped
1/2 cup chopped swede (or carrots or potatoes if you prefer)
1/2 tin chickpeas, drained
1 bunch coriander, chopped
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. Over medium heat, sauté your onions in some oil until softened. Stir in your garlic and ginger, and when fragrant add in your spices and chili, stirring all the while. 2. After 1 minute or so, add your tomatoes and scrape the bottom of the pan to get all the nice bits mixed into your sauce. Stir in 1/2 cup water, season to taste, and bring to a simmer. 3. Stir in your cauliflower, swede and chickpeas, and continue to cook for about twenty minutes on medium-low heat. Stir in some coriander and season to taste.

paneer with greens and ginger.

2011-01-19T11:41:00.000-08:00

One of my nicknames is Paneer Monster. I'll happily attest to being a complete and utter paneer monster - I could easily eat it day after day and genuinely spend my days planning my next paneer dish. Something about squidgy, squeeky cheese is just too wonderful for words.

Paneer, a homemade cottage cheese common in Indian cooking, comes in many varieties: soft, curds, factory-pressed. Each version of the cheese offers something special, whether it's the whey-like flavour of soft, homemade paneer, the creamy richness of the curds, or the versatility and fry-ability of the firm, pressed paneers. Like tofu, it's just a brilliant foil for flavour.

This dish is fresh tasting, sharp, and packs a crisp ginger-chili punch. It's super quick to make and very filling. And even though it's packed with delicious cheese, it has enough greens and spices to make you feel virtuous.

*****

100 grams firm paneer, cut into 1 inch cubes
1 cup spinach, washed and chopped
1/4 cup peas

Sauce:
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 inch knob ginger, peeled
3 cloves garlic
1 chili, chopped
1 tbsp. cumin seed
1 tbsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. ground cumin
2 cloves
3 cardamom pods, bruised
2 tomatoes, pureed
1 cup water
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. In a blender, puree your onion, garlic, and ginger until smooth. In a heavy saucepan, fry this mixture over medium heat in a bit of olive oil. After five minutes, once the onions have sweetened, toss in your chili and spices and fry, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. 2. Pour in your tomato puree and water, season, and bring to a simmer. 3. Cook over low heat until the oil separates from the sauce, about twenty minutes. 4. Meanwhile, fry your paneer cubes in oil in a frying pan over high heat. They should become golden after a few minutes. Turn and continue to fry. 5. Once both sides are golden, toss in your spinach and peas, stir and remove from heat. Season very lightly with salt and pepper.

Serve the paneer with sauce over hot rice with a nice dollop of yogurt.

paneer and celeriac kofte.

2011-01-16T12:33:00.000-08:00

The past few weeks have been busy, getting back into work after the holidays. I've been out most evenings after work and have been out on the weekends for dinner with friends. As a result, it occurred to me today that Michael and I haven't actually eaten together in at least two weeks. We haven't even eaten the same thing. We've been living parallel to one another - him cooking one meal, me cooking another. So I consider tonight's meal a step in the right direction: he was eating leftover chicken curry while I was eating this absolutely delectable, spicy, rich paneer and celeriac kofte with a fennel- and chili-spiced sauce. I can't speak for him, but my dinner was just the warm, flavoursome treat that I need on a Sunday night.

These kofte are so unbelievably easy. You mash up some boiled celeriac and toss it with spices and grated paneer. The kofte bake for forty minutes or so in a hot oven while you whip up this sauce, which took me no time at all. The sauce recipe is from one of my favourite food blogs, Ko Rasoi. Serve with hot rice or nice chappati and you're set: crunchy, tender parcels of celeriac, melting with paneer, and an almost explosive, rich spiced sauce.

*****

1 celeriac, peeled and cubed
100 grams paneer, grated
1 tbsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. coriander powder
pinch of cayenne pepper
1/4 cup buckwheat flour + some for dusting
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F (200 C). Boil your celeriac until tender, about twenty minutes. 2. Drain and mash thoroughly, before mixing with your paneer, spices, and your 1/4 cup flour. Season and form into golf-ball sized patties. Dredge the patties in flour. 3. Brush your patties with a bit of oil and bake on an oiled baking sheet for forty to fifty minutes.

celeriac risotto with savoy cabbage and nutmeg.

2011-01-12T12:29:00.001-08:00

Celeriac might be the least loved vegetable I can think of, besides brussels sprouts. But I must confess that I've recently thought of nothing but delicious, sharp, flavoursome celeriac. It is the ugliest, knobbliest, roughest vegetable I can think of, but once you've reached the white, celery-like flesh, you'll struggle to believe you're dealing with a January root vegetable.

It's strong. Fragrant. Crisp with a celery-like crunch. And it's wonderful roasted, boiled, mashed, stewed - however you cook it. And it's cheap and plentiful at this time of the year.

The ones I get from the farmers' market are covered in dirt and require a good scrubbing before they go anywhere near my chopping board. They get a good trimming on top and bottom, and then I gently slice off the thick skin, revealing the white inside. Here, I've chopped them to centimetre chunks and cooked them into a risotto.

The risotto itself is many-layered in flavour: a base of sautéed onion, nutty arborio rice, sharp celeriac. I added a good grating of fresh nutmeg to spice it up a bit and stirred in a few shredded leaves of savoy cabbage for their green vibrancy. A welcome shock of colour in an otherwise white January dish.

*****

1 small onion, finely diced
1 clove garlic, minced
1 small celeriac, or half a large once, peeled and diced to 1 cm
1 cup arborio rice
3 cups vegetable stock
1 cup shredded savoy cabbage
a knob of butter
olive oil
salt and pepper
whole nutmeg
parmesan shavings, to serve

1. In a large saucepan, gently cook your onions in oil over medium heat. Once softened, add in your garlic and celeriac and stir. Let cook for a further two minutes before stirring in your rice. Season to taste. 2. Once the rice is glossy, pour in your first ladleful of stock. Deglaze the pan with this and then add a bit more stock. As the rice absorbs the stock, stir, and add more stock once it starts to stick. Repeat. 3. Near the end of cooking, once you're near your last bit of stock, stir in your cabbage and butter. Continue the process of adding stock until all the stock is absorbed or until the risotto is al dente, about an hour. Season to taste and grate in about 1/4 teaspoon of fresh nutmeg. Serve with shavings of parmesan, a drizzle of olive oil, and a bit more nutmeg.

pumpkin soup with fennel and olive oil.

2011-01-11T12:07:00.000-08:00

The bright orange of this soup almost outshines its sheer simplicity - it screams, "Look how colourful I am!", distracting from his simple, silky, pumpkin-ness. Sweet and orange, topped with anise-flavoured fennel shavings and olive oil, this soup adds a bit of sharp, acidic freshness to an otherwise drab winter's day.

Fennel is something I'm never 100% sure about. I have a love-hate relationship with anise flavours, loving a bit of fennel seed in yogurt dips, obsessing over the faint whispers of star anise in a stir fry, but somewhat sceptical of the role of thin, crisp fennel shavings in salads, on its own, or in any other context. Then I realised - it just needed to be in the right place, at the right time.

Fennel shines with freshness and crisp winter bite in this soup, tossed over the top at the last minute to add a cool note to a warm, sweet soup. A good dose of pepper, tossed through the fennel and stirred into the soup, warms the back of the palate and rounds the whole thing out. For so few ingredients, there's a lot of powerful flavour here: raw, as it should be, pumpkin, fennel, and pepper at their best.

*****

1 onion
5 cloves of garlic, peeled, left whole
2 cups chopped pumpkin, I used a blue pumpkin
3 cups vegetable stock
1 head fennel, thinly sliced
olive oil
salt and pepper

1. In a large saucepan, sauté your onions and garlic in a bit of oil over medium heat. Once the onions start to soften, toss in the pumpkin and cook, stirring, for another minute. 2. Pour over your stock, deglazing the pan, and bring to a simmer. Cook for 1 hour. 3. Remove from heat, season, and blend with an immersion blender until light and smooth. Reheat over low heat. 4. In another bowl, toss together some fennel, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Serve soup ladled into shallow bowls, topped with some of the fennel shavings.

split pea and vegetable soup.

2011-01-10T11:53:00.000-08:00

It's definitely mid-winter, and I've found myself spending more time indoors and much more time craving warm, enriching, satisfyingly moreish bowls of soup. Smooth soups, heavy soups, spicy noodle soups - I've been eating them all.

There seems to be no time at which soup is inappropriate: My Auntie Dang would often give us packets of noodle soup for breakfast, and I spent my university-days boiling up quick vegetable soups to pack in jars in my backpack. These days I've been eating spiced, warming purées - a mélange of vegetables, pulses, spices, and broth, designed specifically to comfort and soothe on dark, rainy January days.

This soup is a simple, tasty mixture of vegetables - it sits in my mind somewhere between memories of childhood soups in school lunches (for its almost gloupy mixture of potatoes, carrots, and saltiness) and somewhere near my mothers split pea soup, thick, rich, and full of flavour. It's easy, in that you leave it for a long while to cook on the stove, but time consuming, in that the split peas can take a few hours to soften even when they've been soaked. A good blitz with a stick blender helps this process along, and you'll soon be in simple, comforting, soup-heaven.

*****

1/2 cup split yellow peas, soaked overnight or in boiling water for one hour
1 onion, chopped
1 potato, peeled and chopped
1 carrot, chopped,
1 sweet potato, peeled and chopped
2 cups vegetable stock
a handful of spinach, torn
salt and pepper
cream, for drizzling

1. Rinse and drain your split peas, and then bring to a boil in some clean water. Boil for about 20 minutes, then set aside, reserving the cooking water. 2. In a soup pot, sauté your onions in a bit of oil over medium heat. When soft, add in your chopped vegetables and continue to cook, stirring occasionally. 3. After about three minutes, add in your stock, deglazing the pan and scraping any nice bits off the bottom. Stir in your split peas and about a cup of the cooking water. Bring the soup to a boil, and simmer for an hour-and-a-half. 4. Season to taste and then remove from heat. Using an immersion blender or in a regular blender, purée the soup to a smooth consistency. I like to leave a tiny bit unblended to add texture, but this is entirely up to you. Return to the pan, stir in your spinach, and reheat over low heat. Serve with a drizzle of cream.

chickpea and sweet potato chili.

2011-01-02T12:28:00.001-08:00

This warm, spicy, and rich chili is a bit different. In place of the usual red kidney beans, this one uses chickpeas, creating a lighter broth, which is laced with hot chillies, maple syrup, and a splash of coffee. It sounds a bit unusual, I realise, but the combination forms a velvety broth with such depth of flavour you'd have trouble believing it's vegetarian and cooked in but an hour. The sweet potatoes add bulk, colour, and sweetness, though I didn't hesitate to ladle mine over a sliced baked sweet potato to round it out. Topped with yogurt, coriander, and chillies, this dish is a great balance between hot, cool, spicy, and sweet.

*****

2 onions, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 sweet potato, diced
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tin chopped tomatoes
1 tin or carton chickpeas, water retained
1 jalapeño, minced
2 Tbsp. maple syrup
4 Tbsp. hot strong coffee
1 cup shredded cabbage, kale, or other greens
salt and pepper
yogurt and coriander, to serve

1. Sauté your onion in olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy casserole. Once it starts to soften, add in your carrots and cook for a further 3 minutes. 2. Toss in your sweet potato and spices and stir until coated. 3. After a minute, pour in a splash of your tomatoes, scraping the base of the pan to get as much flavour out as possible. Add in the rest of your tomatoes and stir a tinful of water. 4. Bring to a gentle boil and stir in your chickpeas, jalapeño, maple, and coffee. Season to taste, and then cook for twenty minutes. 5. Add in your greens, check for seasoning again, and then cook for a further fifteen minutes. Let stand for a few minutes before serving, topped with yogurt and coriander.

2010 round-up...

2010-12-29T11:30:00.000-08:00

It's been a busy year here on the blog - with breads, curries, and even more Daring Bakers challenges making an appearance. Canadian favourites like nanaimo bars, my early summer celebration of courgettes, cookies, and ice cream cakes, this marks the busiest year yet at My Recipe Project. So now's a time for some rest, cozying up with a warm cuppa and some homemade biscuits.
The past week in London has been quiet, as the week between Christmas and New Year always is, with neighbours out of town, buses on reduced services, and neighbourhood haunts closed for a holiday. But like me, I expect everyone is gearing up for a busy night on the town to mark the new year. Looking ahead to 2011, expect lots of bread, baked goods, and who knows what else! For now, here's a glimpse at what we've covered this year:

Nanaimo Bars
Tiramisu
Chinese New Year Dinner
Roasted Vegetable Salad and Pasta with Kai-Broc
Poached eggs with asparagus
Croquembouche
Beetroot, Carrot and Dill Salad
Stuffed Cheese, Herb, and Tomato Bread
Vegetable Korma and Vanilla Ice Cream with Pistachios
Rhubarb and Cardamom Tart
Pasta in the roasting pan
Courgette Omelets with herbed new potatoes
Courgette Carbonara
Eton Mess
Salty Sweet Stirfry
Herbed Shortbread
Raspberry Vanilla Cake
Artichokes with Lemon Butter
Stuffed Courgettes
Butter Bean Stew
Cherry Chocolate Ice Cream Cake
Farfalle with Courgette Salsa Cruda
Runner Bean Cassoulet
Plum-Thyme Jam
Peach Streusel Pie
Ice Cream Petit Fours
Floral Sugar Cookies
Plum Skillet Cake
Autumn Chutney
Rosewater and Pistachio Doughnuts
Pumpkin Gnocchi and Sage and Chanterelle Stuffing
Pear Polenta Cake
Pumpkin and Coriander Curry
Mincemeat and Apple Tart
Savoy Cabbage and Pasta
Aubergine and Tomato Polenta
Pain au Chocolat Pudding
Stilton and Walnut Pasta
Celeriac Soup with Spinach Pesto
Stollen Wreath

The Christmas Wreath.

2010-12-25T06:46:00.000-08:00

Daring Bakers, December.

To my delight, this month's Daring Bakers challenge played on one of my current obsessions: bread. I've recently developed a real love for pannetone, so I was delighted to be assigned pannetone's cousin this month: stollen. We were asked to shape our loaves into wreaths to make them a little more festive - and the layers of butter and sugar certainly didn't hurt!

The bread was fragrant with the soft smells of vanilla, cinnamon, orange, and almond. The dough baked up soft and airy, and as we were promised, was delicious warm with butter. For the lemon extract I used an extract I made last year at home and in place of the rum I used a bit of juice.

The 2010 December Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Penny of Sweet Sadie’s Baking. She chose to challenge Daring Bakers’ to make Stollen. She adapted a friend’s family recipe and combined it with information from friends, techniques from Peter Reinhart’s book.........and Martha Stewart’s demonstration.

*****

Makes one large wreath or two traditional shaped Stollen loaves. Serves 10-12 people

Ingredients
¼ cup (60ml) lukewarm water (110º F / 43º C)
2 packages (4 1/2 teaspoons) (22 ml) (14 grams) (1/2 oz) active dry yeast
1 cup (240 ml) milk
10 tablespoons (150 ml) (140 grams) unsalted butter (can use salted butter)
5½ cups (1320 ml) (27 ozs) (770 grams) all-purpose (plain) flour (Measure flour first - then sift- plus extra for dusting)
½ cup (120 ml) (115 gms) sugar
¾ teaspoon (3 ¾ ml) (4 ½ grams) salt (if using salted butter there is no need to alter this salt measurement)
1 teaspoon (5 ml) (6 grams) cinnamon
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
Grated zest of 1 lemon and 1 orange
2 teaspoons (10 ml) (very good) vanilla extract
1 teaspoon (5 ml) lemon extract or orange extract
¾ cup (180 ml) (4 ¾ ozs) (135 grams) mixed peel (link below to make your own)
1 cup (240 ml) (6 ozs) (170 gms) firmly packed raisins
3 tablespoons (45ml) rum
12 red glacé cherries (roughly chopped) for the color and the taste. (optional)
1 cup (240 ml) (3 ½ ozs) (100 grams) flaked almonds
Melted unsalted butter for coating the wreath
Confectioners’ (icing) (powdered) sugar for dusting wreath

Note: If you don’t want to use alcohol, double the lemon or orange extract or you could use the juice from the zested orange.

Directions:
Soak the raisins
In a small bowl, soak the raisins in the rum (or in the orange juice from the zested orange) and set aside. See Note under raisins.

To make the dough

Pour ¼ cup (60 ml) warm water into a small bowl, sprinkle with yeast and let stand 5 minutes. Stir to dissolve yeast completely.

In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup (240 ml) milk and 10 tablespoons (150 ml) butter over medium - low heat until butter is melted. Let stand until lukewarm, about 5 minutes.

Lightly beat eggs in a small bowl and add lemon and vanilla extracts.

In a large mixing bowl (4 qt) (4 liters) (or in the bowl of an electric mixer with paddle attachment), stir together the flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon, orange and lemon zests.

Then stir in (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment) the yeast/water mixture, eggs and the lukewarm milk/butter mixture. This should take about 2 minutes. It should be a soft, but not sticky ball. When the dough comes together, cover the bowl with either plastic or a tea cloth and let rest for 10 minutes.

Add in the mixed peel, soaked fruit and almonds and mix with your hands or on low speed to incorporate. Here is where you can add the cherries if you would like. Be delicate with the cherries or all your dough will turn red!

Sprinkle flour on the counter, transfer the dough to the counter, and begin kneading (or mixing with the dough hook) to distribute the fruit evenly, adding additional flour if needed. The dough should be soft and satiny, tacky but not sticky. Knead for approximately 8 minutes (6 minutes by machine). The full six minutes of kneading is needed to distribute the dried fruit and other ingredients and to make the dough have a reasonable bread-dough consistency. You can tell when the dough is kneaded enough – a few raisins will start to fall off the dough onto the counter because at the beginning of the kneading process the dough is very sticky and the raisins will be held into the dough but when the dough is done it is tacky which isn't enough to bind the outside raisins onto the dough ball.

Lightly oil a large bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling around to coat it with the oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.
Put it in the fridge overnight. The dough becomes very firm in the fridge (since the butter goes firm) but it does rise slowly… the raw dough can be kept in the refrigerator up to a week and then baked on the day you want.

Shaping the Dough and Baking the Wreath

1. Let the dough rest for 2 hours after taking out of the fridge in order to warm slightly.
2. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.
3. Preheat oven to moderate 350°F/180°C/gas mark 4 with the oven rack on the middle shelf.
4. Punch dough down, roll into a rectangle about 16 x 24 inches (40 x 61 cms) and ¼ inch (6 mm) thick.

Starting with a long side, roll up tightly, forming a long, thin cylinder.

Transfer the cylinder roll to the sheet pan. Join the ends together, trying to overlap the layers to make the seam stronger and pinch with your fingers to make it stick, forming a large circle. You can form it around a bowl to keep the shape.

This was before I pinched it together

Using kitchen scissors, make cuts along outside of circle, in 2-inch (5 cm) intervals, cutting 2/3 of the way through the dough.

Twist each segment outward, forming a wreath shape. Mist the dough with spray oil and cover loosely with plastic wrap.

Proof for approximately 2 hours at room temperature, or until about 1½ times its original size.
Bake the stollen for 20 minutes, then rotate the pan 180 degrees for even baking and continue to bake for 20 to 30 minutes. The bread will bake to a dark mahogany color, should register 190°F/88°C in the center of the loaf, and should sound hollow when thumped on the bottom.

Transfer to a cooling rack and brush the top with melted butter while still hot.
Immediately tap a layer of powdered sugar over the top through a sieve or sifter.
Wait for 1 minute, then tap another layer over the first.
The bread should be coated generously with the powdered sugar.
Let cool at least an hour before serving. Coat the stollen in butter and icing sugar three times, since this many coatings helps keeps the stollen fresh - especially if you intend on sending it in the mail as Christmas presents!

When completely cool, store in a plastic bag. Or leave it out uncovered overnight to dry out slightly, German style.

The stollen tastes even better in a couple of days and it toasts superbly…. so delicious with butter and a cup of tea….mmmmm

Storage
The more rum and the more coatings of butter and sugar you use the longer it will store.
The following is for the recipe as written and uses the 45 mls of rum and two coatings of butter and icing sugar
1. Stollen freezes beautifully about 4 months
2. The baked stollen stores well for 2 weeks covered in foil and plastic wrap on the counter at room temperature and
3. One month in the refrigerator well covered with foil and plastic wrap.

celeriac soup with spinach pesto.

2010-12-19T03:51:00.000-08:00

Warming and full of crisp, celery-like flavour, this soup is exactly right for the cold, snowy weather of late. The spinach and almond pesto adds sharpness and a garlicy bite, but the remains of the soup are best mopped up by a nice piece of dark rye bread. Absolutely delicious.

*****
Soup
1 celeriac, peeled and chopped
a handful of potatoes, chopped
1 onion
2 cups vegetable stock
olive oil
salt and pepper

1. Sauté your onions in a bit of oil in a large pot over medium heat, just until soft. Add in your potatoes and celeriac, stir, and season. Once it smells fragrant and is sticking a bit in your pot, pour over a bit of stock to deglaze the pan. 2. Add in the rest of your stock and bring to a simmer. 3. After about 15 minutes, once the potatoes and celeriac are soft, remove the soup from heat and blend to a smooth soup with an immersion blender. Season to taste, and rewarm gently over low heat.

Spinach and Almond Pesto

1 clove garlic
a small handful of sliced almonds
1 cup spinach, torn
salt and pepper
olive oil

1. In a pestle and mortar, grind your garlic and salt to a smooth paste. Add in your almonds and continue to bash those in. 2. Add in your spinach, pepper, and a bit more salt and grind it to a paste. 3. Stir in some olive oil and serve.

pumpkin and coriander curry.

2010-11-29T08:27:00.000-08:00

My Auntie Dang, an emotive Thai woman living in Toronto, is not my real auntie, but I like to imagine she is family - if only so I can pilfer her brilliant repertoire of recipes. Auntie Dang lived in Thailand until she moved to Canada, and according to my mother's stories, grew up in the jungle. She was capable of killing snakes. And of giving almost-too-painful massages (or hugs for that matter). The one thing I've always been sure of is that she is capable of cooking up a storm. I've seen her cook Osso Bucco, pad thai, noodle soup, and pumpkin curry in the span of hours. She is forever feeding her many houseguests and consistently infusing her food with love, happiness, and a desire to keep on eating. I love eating at her house, though she frequently chastises me for my vegetarianism.

Anyhow, it's been very cold in London lately and I found myself out on the Heath, frozen to the core, craving a big bowl of Auntie Dang's pumpkin stew. She makes it with loads of dill and lemongrass, and it's always a bit too hot and so delightfully orange. I didn't have dill or lemongrass on hand, alas, but knocked up this gingery, rich pumpkin curry in about thirty minutes. It's perfect served with hot rice and a sprinkle of chili, coriander, and spring onion. I stirred in a bit of spinach at the last minute, but this is by no means necessary. On the whole, it's warm and enriching for a winter night.

*****

1 small pumpkin or squash, cubed
1/2 turnip/swede, cubed
3 spring onions, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
2 tomatoes, diced
1 cup vegetable stock
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. rice vinegar

Paste:
3 inch knob ginger, peeled
4 cloves garlic
1 red chili
1 tsp. coriander seeds
a handful of coriander
a splash of olive oil
salt and pepper

In a food processor, whiz together the ingredients for your paste, using a bit of salt and pepper to season and the olive oil to keep it moving in the processor. Heat a large pan over medium heat, and fry your paste off in a bit of oil. Toss in your vegetables, and stir to coat. After about two minutes, or when it gets really fragrant, toss in your vegetable stock, then season with soy and vinegar. Cook for about ten minutes, and season to taste. Once the squash softens, remove about 1/2 cup of the curry and blend to a smooth paste in your processor. Add this back to the pan to thicken the curry, and cook for a further five minutes. Serve hot.

tarts and stars: mincemeat and apple tart.

2010-11-27T03:49:00.000-08:00

daring bakers, november.

This month, I was pleased to be given a challenge that was so flexible - crostata, using pasta frolla (basically sweet, rich shortcrust) with whatever filling we liked. Being November, and with family visiting, I went for warm, comforting, winter staples: apples and mincemeat. I must confess, I didn't make the mince myself as I was a bit stretched for time (and it needs a while to hang about) but I had a great time with the pastry and was really pleased with how it turned out. Will definitely be using this recipe again.

I apologise for the photo, which was taken a second after I offered a slice to my father, because I had completely forgotten to schedule a proper photoshoot for it. Oh well...

The 2010 November Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Simona of briciole. She chose to challenge Daring Bakers’ to make pasta frolla for a crostata. She used her own experience as a source, as well as information from Pellegrino Artusi’s Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well.

*****
Ingredients:

1/2 c. minus 1 tablespoon [105 ml, 100 g, 3 ½ oz] caster sugar or a scant 3/4 cup [180ml, 90g, 3 oz] of powdered sugar
1 and 3/4 cup [420 ml, 235 g, 8 1/4 oz.] unbleached all-purpose flour
a pinch of salt
1 stick [8 tablespoons / 4 oz. / 115 g] cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
grated zest of half a lemon
1 large egg and 1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten in a small bowl

Whisk together sugar, flour and salt in a bowl.
Rub or cut the butter into the flour until the mixture has the consistency of coarse crumbs. You can do this in the bowl or on your work surface, using your fingertips or an implement of choice.

Make a well in the center of the mounded flour and butter mixture and pour the beaten eggs into it (reserve about a teaspoon of the egg mixture for glazing purposes later on – place in the refrigerator, covered, until ready to use).
Add the lemon zest to your flour/butter/egg mixture.
Use a fork to incorporate the liquid into the solid ingredients, and then use your fingertips.
Knead lightly just until the dough comes together into a ball.
Shape the dough into a flat disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Place the dough in the refrigerator and chill for at least two hours. You can refrigerate the dough overnight.

Roll out the dough to fit your pie or tart dish, then prick the bottom with a fork . Fill with your fruit mixture and bake at 375 F for 25-35 minutes, or until golden.

sautéed savoy cabbage and pasta.

2010-11-22T02:23:00.000-08:00

I have two versions of this recipe that, depending on my mood, are often broken out at a moment's notice. It's quick and light, so comforting, and wildly flavourful for its diminutive ingredient list. Option one is to simply sauté the cabbage with garlic, then add some butter and pasta water to form a light sauce - this is tossed with the pasta, a bit of olive oil, and lots of salt and pepper. Option two, shown here, is a bit more intense - featuring a carbonara-like sauce and lots of parmesan. Either is delicious, but the latter is so creamy and smooth, it straddles the perfect balance between light and comforting.

*****

1 cup shredded savoy cabbage
2 cloves garlic
150 grams. short pasta, such as penne
a splash of cream
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup parmesan
salt and pepper
olive oil
nutmeg, a tiny bit

Bring your pasta to a boil in some nicely salted water. Meanwhile, sauté your cabbage in a bit of oil over medium heat - add in your garlic once the cabbage starts to soften a bit, but keep the pan moving so the garlic doesn't burn. A bit of colour on the cabbage adds flavour. In a jug, mix together your cream, egg yolk, and half your parmesan, seasoning. Season your cabbage lightly as well, topping with a few grates of nutmeg. Once the pasta is cooked, drain, reserving 1/4 cup of the cooking water. Toss your pasta into the pan with the cabbage, and remove from heat immediately. Pour over your jug of cream sauce and add in the reserved water, stirring all the while. Season and top with parmesan, and serve immediately.

balsamic for breakfast: aubergine and tomato polenta.

2010-11-12T13:19:00.001-08:00

Usually around Wednesday, right when the work week is wearing me out and I'm feeling especially moody, we run out of bread. As a toast-for-breakfast devotee, this is always a bit hard to take. But then, while making lunch the other day, it struck me! I should make a bit of extra polenta and set it aside for tomorrow's breakfast. Then I'd have a bounty of options with which to start my culinary day: polenta with maple syrup and cinnamon, polenta with eggs, polenta with mushrooms.

Rifling through the fridge, I went for whatever I could first get my hands on: aubergine, tomatoes, spinach, and parmesan. Drizzled with a bit of oil and balsamic and a good dose of black pepper - a filling, flavourful, and colourful way to breakfast. That, combined with my usual honeybush tea, and I was a happy girl until lunchtime.

*****
1 cup of cooked polenta, spread 1 inch thick and chilled overnight
1/4 of an aubergine, sliced in crescents
a few tomatoes, halved
a handful of spinach, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons olive oil
parmesan, salt, and pepper

In a hot skillet, fry your polenta in about 2 tbsp. of olive oil. When golden, after about five minutes, turn over and cook for a further five minutes. Set aside. In the same pan, fry your aubergine until soft, then add your tomatoes and spinach, seasoning with salt and pepper. Take off the heat, and top the polenta with vegetables. Drizzle over the balsamic, oil, and parmesan, and season to taste.

Saturdays on the sofa...

2010-11-10T04:10:00.000-08:00

Quick pain au chocolat pudding, doused with custard.

This is less of a recipe than a quick, comforting, throw-together-in-a-few-minutes kind of pudding. Which is nice - I only ever decide I want dessert at about 7 p.m. and simply could not fathom steaming a pudding for 3 hours' time. So this one, quick, easy, is just a bit of pain au chocolate (or by all means, plain croissant, bread, etc.) with a bit of sugar, baked with custard. I top it off with even more custard and dig in, refusing to share. Make it and you'll understand why.

Not at all pretty, but so moreish.

*****

1 pain au chocolat per person
1 cup of custard per person (homemade or shop bought)
a sprinkle of sugar

Tear up your croissant and pack into a buttered pudding tin. Pour over half the custard, making sure to get into the cracks, but don't let it overflow. Bake at 400 degrees F for about 15-20 minutes, or until browned nicely on the top. Top it off with more custard and dig in!

stilton and walnut pasta.

2010-11-06T07:57:00.000-07:00

This is a quick dish, excellent for a filling lunch or an after-work dinner. The sauce is creamy and sharp with stilton, and the toasted walnuts provide a good crunch. I used brown rice pasta for this dish, but by all means use whatever you have on hand. A handful of spinach tossed in at the end gives a welcome bit of green to this otherwise creamy pasta.

*****

75 grams stilton (or other blue cheese)
a handful of walnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
a splash of cream or whole milk (whatever you have on hand)
a handful of spinach, torn up
salt
pepper
olive oil
150 grams penne pasta, or similar

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and put your pasta on to cook. Once almost cooked, transfer your pasta to a saucepan, and stir in a splash of olive oil, a few tablespoons of pasta water, your cream, and the cheese over medium heat. Once smooth and creamy, season and add your spinach. Serve with the toasted walnuts strewn through the pasta.

autumn chutney.

2010-10-28T07:34:00.001-07:00

Those familiar with the brief British summer might also be familiar with how quickly it comes to an end. Suddenly, September brings near-winter weather, the scarves are out, the leaves have turned, and the tomatoes are still... green. It seems to happen every year.

Now, I could easily put this down to my own procrastination. My tomatoes rarely get going until April, and I'd probably have a lot more ripe fruits if I started them earlier indoors. But this year, nonetheless, I was confronted with a good harvest of green tomatoes.

I'm a big fan of fried green tomatoes, and have tried to convert many a friend to such delicacies, but the little cherry tomatoes I've grown this year just wouldn't do for that. Instead, I've made an autumn chutney, a good mixture of autumn veg and fruit - mixing together a few recipes as well. It's thick with green and red tomatoes, sweet with apple, raisin, and muscovado sugar, spicy with fresh chili and onion, and sour with a good dose of malt vinegar. The stewing mess of fruits is laced, ever so gently, with mustard seed.

It cooks down on the stove in about an hour, and then gets jarred into sterile jars (or bottles, whatever you have). I've opted to process mine in boiling water for twenty minutes, just to be on the safe side. It's roughly similar to a number of recipes I browsed through, but probably closest (but for the apple) to Nigel Slater's Mixed Tomato Chutney.

*****

800 grams of mixed green and red tomatoes
1/2 an onion, finely chopped
a handful of raisins
2 apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
1 chili, finely chopped
3/4 cup muscovado sugar
1 tsp. salt
3 tsp. mustard seed
1 cup malt vinegar

Bring your green tomatoes, onion, raisins, apples, chili, sugar, salt, mustard, and vinegar to a boil in a large, heavy saucepan. Reduce heat to low and simmer, adding your tomatoes after about twenty minutes. Simmer for a further forty minutes, stirring occasionally. Spoon the hot chutney into clean, sterile jars, seal, and process in boiling water for twenty minutes (or eat within two weeks).

rose and pale green.

2010-10-27T09:00:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, october.
Rosewater and Pistachio Doughnuts

I haven't been quite so excited about a Daring Bakers Challenge in a while. Perhaps, as our host Lori (of Butter Me Up) noted, my love of doughnuts goes back to my Canadian upbringing. Despite my generally good diet, I do have a real weakness for fried, fluffy, sugared, and sprinkled doughnuts.

Growing up, Tim Hortons was a usual stop for such confections - I remember feeling so grown up at the age of six, eating walnut crunch doughnuts like my father. Dense, almost bitter with cocoa, with sparsely strewn walnuts throughout. But deep down, all posturing aside, I'm a rainbow sprinkle kind of girl.

These doughnuts are floral, fragrant, and sweet - light fried doughnuts with a sweet rosewater glaze, topped with finely chopped green pistachios. I made a few doughnut holes - or Timbits, if you will - with cinnamon and sugar dusted round them, as well as a few custard-filled, chocolate-dipped giants. I liked the rosewater best, and, incidentally, might have given myself a pistachio allergy in the process of eating so many - the doctor has advised me to avoid them for a while after a sudden allergic reaction! That'll teach me to gorge myself on my baking challenges.

The October 2010 Daring Bakers challenge was hosted by Lori of Butter Me Up.
Lori chose to challenge DBers to make doughnuts. She used several sources for her recipes including
Alton Brown, Nancy Silverton, Kate Neumann and Epicurious.

*****

Yeast Doughnuts

Preparation time:
Hands on prep time - 25 minutes
Rising time - 1.5 hours total
Cooking time - 12 minutes

Yield: 20 to 25 doughnuts & 20 to 25 doughnut holes, depending on size

Ingredients
Milk 1.5 cup / 360 ml
Vegetable Shortening 1/3 cup / 80 ml / 70 gm / 2.5 oz (can substitute butter, margarine or lard)
Active Dry Yeast 4.5 teaspoon (2 pkgs.) / 22.5 ml / 14 gm / ½ oz
Warm Water 1/3 cup / 80 ml (95°F to 105°F / 35°C to 41°C)
Eggs, Large, beaten 2
White Granulated Sugar ¼ cup / 60 ml / 55 gm / 2 oz
Table Salt 1.5 teaspoon / 7.5 ml / 9 gm / 1/3 oz
Nutmeg, grated 1 tsp. / 5 ml / 6 gm / ¼ oz
All Purpose Flour 4 2/3 cup / 1,120 ml / 650 gm / 23 oz + extra for dusting surface
Canola Oil DEPENDS on size of vessel you are frying in – you want THREE (3) inches of oil
(can substitute any flavorless oil used for frying)

Directions:

1. Place the milk in a medium saucepan and heat over medium heat just until warm enough to melt the shortening.
(Make sure the shortening is melted so that it incorporates well into the batter.)
2. Place the shortening in a bowl and pour warmed milk over. Set aside.
3. In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water and let dissolve for 5 minutes. It should get foamy. After 5
minutes, pour the yeast mixture into the large bowl of a stand mixer and add the milk and shortening mixture, first
making sure the milk and shortening mixture has cooled to lukewarm.
4. Add the eggs, sugar, salt, nutmeg, and half of the flour. Using the paddle attachment of your mixer (if you have one),
combine the ingredients on low speed until flour is incorporated and then turn the speed up to medium and beat
until well combined.
5. Add the remaining flour, combining on low speed at first, and then increase the speed to medium and beat well.
6. Change to the dough hook attachment of the mixer and beat on medium speed until the dough pulls away from the
bowl and becomes smooth, approximately 3 to 4 minutes (for me this only took about two minutes). If you do not
have a dough hook/stand mixer – knead until the dough is smooth and not sticky.
7. Transfer to a well-oiled bowl, cover, and let rise for 1 hour or until doubled in size.
8. On a well-floured surface, roll out dough to 3/8-inch (9 mm)thick. (Make sure the surface really is well-floured
otherwise your doughnuts will stick to the counter).
9. Cut out dough using a 2 1/2-inch (65 mm) doughnut cutter or pastry ring or drinking glass and using a 7/8-inch (22
mm) ring for the center whole. Set on floured baking sheet, cover lightly with a tea towel, and let rise for 30 minutes.
10. Preheat the oil in a deep fryer or Dutch oven to 365 °F/185°C.
11. Gently place the doughnuts into the oil, 3 to 4 at a time. Cook for 1 minute per side or until golden brown (my
doughnuts only took about 30 seconds on each side at this temperature).
12. Transfer to a cooling rack placed in baking pan. Allow to cool for 15 to 20 minutes prior to glazing, if desired.

Rosewater Glaze:

1 cup icing sugar
a few tablespoons rosewater (to desired thickness)

Mix until smooth and slightly runny - it should set thinly but drip down only slightly.

For the pistachios, try to get unsalted, raw nuts - I found them at my local health food store. Toast them lightly in a pan and then chop as finely as you like. The finer the chop, the greener and more delicate the effect.

A Canadian Thanksgiving in London...

2010-10-11T08:34:00.000-07:00

I take Thanksgiving pretty seriously. It's my favourite holiday of the year and the one time you can be guaranteed I'll be cooking a big meal for friends. Even in a country where people have no idea about Thanksgiving, let alone that Canadians celebrate this a whole month or so earlier than the neighbours to the south, I've kept up the tradition, having a big dinner on the Sunday (as we don't get Mondays off on this side of the pond).

This year, after many years of huge dinners (for which I've cooked everything) for up to twenty people, I went low-key. We had a just a handful of close friends and I focussed on relaxing a bit more. The menu was simple, standard: Brie baked with maple syrup and almonds, pumpkin gnocchi with sage butter, sage and chanterelle stuffing, roast veg, a roast bird for the meat eaters, and maple pumpkin pie. Here are the recipes for some of my favourites.

Sage and Chanterelle Stuffing
1/4 cup chopped rehydrated (or fresh) chanterelles, liquid reserved
1 cup field mushrooms, finely diced
1 carrot, finely diced
1 celery stalk, finely diced
1 onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 loaf of brown bread, cubed
1 cup vegetable stock
a handful of sage leaves, shredded
salt and pepper

1. Warm a few glugs of olive oil in a casserole dish (I use my oven proof Le Creuset) and saute your onion, celery, and carrot. Once the onions are translucent, toss in your garlic and mushrooms, and continue to cook until the mushrooms have cooked down in size. Stir in your chanterelles and sage, and deglaze the pan with the mushroom water. Season well.
2. Add in your cubed bread and mix well. Pour over your vegetable stock and continue to mix until all the bread is moist, season to taste, and then bake at 375 degrees F for 40 minutes.

Pumpkin and Potato Gnocchi (gluten-free)
150 grams cooked pumpkin, mashed well
150 grams boiled potato, mashed well
150 grams gluten-free flour blend (mine is rice, tapioca, and buckwheat)
1 egg
1 tbsp. butter, softened
salt and pepper

Combine your ingredients to get a smooth dough. Divide into 8 pieces, and roll each out into a long tube, about 1 inch in width. Cut off 1/2 inch pieces and gently roll these into small gnocchi. Repeat until done, then mark each piece with the tines of a fork. Refrigerate before cooking. Cook for 1-2 minutes in boiling salted water - they are done when they float. Best served with sage-laced brown butter and parmesan.

pear polenta cake.

2010-10-03T03:12:00.000-07:00

Every autumn, my diffuse little neighbourhood acts with conviviality and community-spirit for a short time. Apparently, they all have apple or pear trees in their gardens, and share the bounty for all on the street to enjoy. Boxes of blemished fruit appear on the terrace walls, with signs urging passersby to take them home. I always grab a few for cakes or pies, and this year decided to confront my pear issues.

These issues being, primarily, the grainy texture. I really hate that. But I'd genuinely love to enjoy eating pears. So I figured if you can't beat 'em, join 'em. This polenta cake matches the fruit in texture - not grainy so much as noticeably made with cornmeal. But gently sweet and fairly soft as well. Surprisingly, a total hit. It is roughly identical to Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's pear and almond cake, sans almonds.

*****

150g unsalted butter, softened
125g caster sugar
2 medium eggs
75g wholemeal self raising flour
75g ground cornmeal/polenta
A good pinch of cinnamon

3 pears
25g unsalted butter
1 tbsp granulated sugar

Grease your round cake tin and line the bottom with parchment. Preheat the oven to 170 degrees C.

Peal, core, and quarter your pears, and fry them in the 25g of butter and sugar for a few minutes, until browned and fragrant.

In a mixing bowl, beat your sugar and butter until light and creamy, and then add each egg one at a time, beating each in. Fold the flour, cornmeal, and cinnamon into the mixture, and scrape into your cake tin. Top with the pears, and bake for 45 minutes or so, or until a tester comes out clean.

Serve with a bit of yogurt or cream, and a nice big cup of tea.

learning to paint with my grandmother.

2010-09-27T04:02:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, september.

We were asked, this month, to try our hand at decorating sugar cookies - not just everyday holiday cookies, but almost professional ones, good enough to give away as party favours or gifts. The kinds of cookies are lovely to look at, but often aren't really geared towards eating.

We were asked to use the theme of September to inspire out designs. Having thought a lot about it - autumn? leaves? back to school? - something remarkable struck me. These posts are shown to the world on the 27th of every month. This month being September, I realised that I'd be posting my cookies on the birthday of my late paternal grandmother. I still miss my Nan everyday. And I especially miss the time I spent with her in the kitchen - or even just eating biscuits with tea in front of Wheel of Fortune.

When I was very young, my grandfather would pick me up each day from school and we'd drive the fifteen minute journey to have a hot lunch with Nan. She always remembered to wrap both of us up in a pinny to spare our clothes the inevitable stains, and always made us something we'd enjoy - cacciatore, spaghetti and meatballs, sausage and mash. I obviously wasn't a vegetarian back then.

And each afternoon, my grandfather would go back to work, leaving me and Nan to while away the hours - usually painting. She taught me to paint in watercolour ever so patiently. I remember each of us painting half of a canvas - in my design - featuring Cinderella, the fat cat Lucifer, and her dogs and mice. Nan's flowers, painted on the left side of the canvas, put my six-year-old dabblings to shame. She really knew how to paint. But she patiently, calmly tried to teach me. Whenever I paint, I try to reach back to what she taught me on those afternoons.

So my cookies this month are dedicated to my Nan. I saw a design for the most beautiful floral cookies - painted with frosting - while browsing for ideas and it felt just right. I can't say I'm very good at this today - and I'm sure Nan would have done a near perfect job of it. But it was nice to get out a brush and put together two of the things I love doing: baking and painting. The cookies were fantastic and buttery, and the frosting set smoothly and with a nice gloss. Thanks for this one.

The September 2010 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Mandy of “What the Fruitcake?!” Mandy challenged everyone to make Decorated Sugar Cookies based on recipes from Peggy Porschen and The Joy of Baking.

*****

Basic Sugar Cookies:
Makes Approximately 36x 10cm / 4" Cookies

200g / 7oz / ½ cup + 6 Tbsp Unsalted Butter, at room temperature
400g / 14oz / 3 cups + 3 Tbsp All Purpose / Plain Flour
200g / 7oz / 1 cup Caster Sugar / Superfine Sugar
1 Large Egg, lightly beaten
5ml / 1 tsp Vanilla Extract / Or seeds from 1 vanilla bean

Directions
• Cream together the butter, sugar and any flavourings you’re using. Beat until just becoming
creamy in texture.
• Tip: Don’t over mix otherwise you’ll incorporate too much air and the cookies will spread during
baking, losing their shape.
• Beat in the egg until well combined, make sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Add the sifted flour and mix on low until a non sticky dough forms.
• Tip: I don’t have a stand mixer so I find it easier to switch to dough hooks at this stage to avoid
flour flying everywhere.
• Knead into a ball and divide into 2 or 3 pieces.
• Roll out each portion between parchment paper to a thickness of about 5mm/1/5 inch (0.2 inch)
• Refrigerate for a minimum of 30mins.
• Tip: Recipes commonly just wrap the whole ball of dough in clingwrap and then refrigerate it for an
hour or overnight, but by rolling the dough between parchment, this shortens the chilling time and
then it’s also been rolled out while still soft making it easier and quicker.
• Once chilled, peel off parchment and place dough on a lightly floured surface.
• Cut out shapes with cookie cutters or a sharp knife.
• Arrange shapes on parchment lined baking sheets and refrigerate for another 30mins to an hour.
• Tip: It’s very important you chill them again otherwise they’ll spread while baking.
• Re-roll scraps and follow the above process until all scraps are used up.
• Preheat oven to 180°C (160°C Fan Assisted) / 350°F / Gas Mark 4.
• Bake until golden around the edges, about 8-15mins depending on the size of the cookies.
• Tip: Bake same sized cookies together otherwise mixing smaller with larger cookies could result in
some cookies being baked before others are done.
• Tip: Rotate baking sheets half way through baking if your oven bakes unevenly.
• Leave to cool on cooling racks.
• Once completely cooled, decorate as desired.
• Tip: If wrapped in tinfoil/cling wrap or kept in airtight containers in a cool place, un-decorated
cookies can last up to a month.

Royal Icing:

315g – 375g / 11oz – 13oz / 2½ - 3 cups Icing / Confectioner’s / Powdered Sugar, unsifted
2 Large Egg Whites
10ml / 2 tsp Lemon Juice
5ml / 1 tsp Almond Extract, optional

Directions

• Beat egg whites with lemon juice until combined.
• Tip: It’s important that the bowls/spoons/spatulas and beaters you use are thoroughly cleaned and
grease free.
• Sift the icing sugar to remove lumps and add it to the egg whites.
• Tip: I’ve listed 2 amounts of icing sugar, the lesser amount is good for a flooding consistency, and the larger amount is for outlining, but you can add even more for a much thicker consistency good for writing. If you add too much icing sugar or would like to make a thinner consistency, add very small amounts of water, a few drops at a time, until you reach the consistency you need.
• Beat on low until combined and smooth.
• Use immediately or keep in an airtight container.
• Tip: Royal Icing starts to harden as soon as it’s in contact with air so make sure to cover containers with plastic wrap while not in use.

baking with my mom.

2010-09-12T12:42:00.001-07:00

Baking with my mom is always a treat. Just being in the kitchen with her leaves me with that special, familiar energy that inspires my cooking and raises the bar just a bit. She taught me how to cook nearly everything - from knowing how to peel a clove of garlic, make a soufflé rise, and add flavour in at every stage of the cooking.

But I don't get to cook with her very often any more. Living on separate continents, we chat about food during our weekly phone calls, sharing what we've been cooking and enjoying. She sends me food magazines from home, and I tell her about the amazing London restaurants I've been lucky enough to eat in. It's a small but significant compensation for the time spent apart.

Today, my mom is cooking for my older sister and nephew. She mentioned she'd be making a plum skillet cake from last month's Martha Stewart Living, and by the time she'd told me more about it, I realised I'd also bought plums this week and hadn't yet decided what to do with them. So there I was, making the same cake as my mom on the same day, in different kitchens on different continents. I think it tasted a little nicer because I knew she'd be doing the same as me, creaming the butter, slicing the plums, peering in the oven at a golden, puffy cake.

Find the recipe here.

petit fours from the freezer.

2010-08-28T03:36:00.000-07:00

daring bakers, august.

I must confess, I hadn't planned on completing the challenge this month. Despite having already used up my 'free passes' for the year, that little voice in the back of my head kept saying, "Can't be bothered." And, up to the very last day of the challenge, I hadn't bothered to seriously consider it. And then, having little to do on the final evening, I thought, "Hold on, I love frozen cake. And I love brown butter. And I really love Elissa's 17 and Baking blog."

So here it is. I made brown butter pound cake petit fours, filled with vanilla ice cream and covered in a dark chocolate glaze. Crumbs leftover from leveling my cake made the perfect decoration. The cake itself was nutty, rich, and not too sweet. It freezes nicely, giving it a good bite when frozen.

While photographing these little cakes, I marveled at how nice plates make all the difference to a photograph. These ones were part of my birthday gift from M, from the Royal Albert series of teacups. The one featured here is the 1930's Polka Rose.

The August 2010 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Elissa of 17 and Baking. For the first time, The Daring Bakers partnered with Sugar High Fridays for a co-event and Elissa was the gracious hostess of both. Using the theme of beurre noisette, or browned butter, Elissa chose to challenge Daring Bakers to make a pound cake to be used in either a Baked Alaska or in Ice Cream Petit Fours. The sources for Elissa’s challenge were Gourmet magazine and David Lebovitz’s “The Perfect Scoop”.

*****

Vanilla Ice Cream

1 cup (250ml) whole milk
A pinch of salt
3/4 cup (165g) sugar
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise OR 2 teaspoons (10ml) pure vanilla extract
2 cups (500ml) heavy (approx 35% butterfat) cream
5 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon (5ml) pure vanilla extract

1. Heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a medium saucepan until the liquid steams. Scrape out the seeds of the vanilla bean with a paring knife and add to the milk, along with the bean pod. Cover, remove from heat, and let infuse for an hour. (If you do not have a vanilla bean, simply heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a medium saucepan until the liquid steams, then let cool to room temperature.)

2. Set up an ice bath by placing a 2-quart (2 litre) bowl inside a large bowl partially filled with water and ice. Put a strainer on top of the smaller bowl and pour in the cream.

3. In another bowl, lightly beat the egg yolks together. Reheat the milk in the medium saucepan until warmed, and then gradually pour ¼ cup warmed milk into the yolks, constantly whisking to keep the eggs from scrambling. Once the yolks are warmed, scrape the yolk and milk mixture back into the saucepan of warmed milk and cook over low heat. Stir constantly and scrape the bottom with a spatula until the mixture thickens into a custard which thinly coats the back of the spatula.

4. Strain the custard into the heavy cream and stir the mixture until cooled. Add the vanilla extract (1 teaspoon [5ml] if you are using a vanilla bean; 3 teaspoons [15ml] if you are not using a vanilla bean) and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, preferably overnight.

5. Remove the vanilla bean and freeze in an ice cream maker. If you don’t have an ice cream maker, you can make it without a machine. See instructions from David Lebovitz: http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2007/07/making_ice_crea_1.html

Brown Butter Pound Cake

19 tablespoons (9.5 oz) (275g) unsalted (sweet) butter
2 cups (200g) sifted cake flour (not self-rising; sift before measuring) (See “Note” section for cake flour substitution)
1 teaspoon (5g) baking powder
1/2 teaspoon (3g) salt
1/2 cup (110g) packed light brown sugar
1/3 (75g) cup granulated sugar
4 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F/160°C and put a rack in the center. Butter and flour a 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) square pan.

2. Place the butter in a 10” (25cm) skillet over medium heat. Brown the butter until the milk solids are a dark chocolate brown and the butter smells nutty. (Don’t take your eyes off the butter in case it burns.) Pour into a shallow bowl and chill in the freezer until just congealed, 15-30 minutes.

3. Whisk together cake flour, baking powder, and salt.

4. Beat the brown butter, light brown sugar, and granulated sugar in an electric mixer until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well, and then the vanilla extract.

5. Stir in the flour mixture at low speed until just combined.

6. Scrape the batter into the greased and floured 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) square pan. Smooth the top with a rubber spatula and rap the pan on the counter. Bake until golden brown on top and when a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes.

7. Cool in the pan 10 minutes. Run a knife along the edge and invert right-side-up onto a cooling rack to cool completely.

Chocolate Glaze

9 ounces (250g) dark chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) heavy (approx 35% butterfat) cream
1 1/2 tablespoons (32g) light corn syrup, Golden syrup, or agave nectar
2 teaspoons (10ml) vanilla extract

Stir the heavy cream and light corn syrup in a small saucepan over medium heat until it comes to a boil. Remove from heat and add the dark chocolate. Let sit 30 seconds, then stir to completely melt the chocolate. Stir in the vanilla and let cool until tepid before glazing the petit fours.

Assembly Instructions – Ice Cream Petit Fours

1. Line a 9”x9” (23cmx23cm) pan with plastic wrap, so that no sides of the pan are exposed and so there is some extra plastic wrap hanging off the sides. Spread 1 ¾ to 2 cups (450ml to 500ml) ice cream into the pan. Cover with more plastic wrap and freeze several hours.

2. Once the brown butter pound cake has completely cooled, level the top with a cake leveler or a serrated knife. Then split the cake in half horizontally to form two thin layers.

3. Unwrap the frozen ice cream. Flip out onto one of the layers of cake and top with the second layer of cake. Wrap well in plastic wrap and return to the freezer overnight.

4. Make the chocolate glaze (see above.)

5. While the glaze cools, trim ¾” (2cm) off each side of the ice cream cake to leave a perfectly square 7.5” (19cm) ice cream cake. Cut the cake into twenty five petit fours, each 1.5”x1.5” (4cmx4cm).

6. Glaze the petit fours one at a time: place a petit four on a fork and spoon chocolate glaze over it.

7. Place the petit fours on a parchment-lined baking sheet and return to the freezer for one hour.

birthday picnic - peach streusel pie.

2010-08-21T11:17:00.000-07:00

In celebration of my recent birthday, I had a picnic, not for the faint-hearted, on Hampstead Heath this weekend. The weather forecast was pretty grim, but we stuck it out anyway and sheltered under my favourite tree. Thankfully, the rain held off and we were able to enjoy a feast of courgette tarts, quiche, salads, pie, and cake.

The pie in this case was the peach, marscapone, and streusel pie I promised to bake a few months back. And it was truly outstanding. Sweet, rich, and fragrant with soft peaches - by far the best I've had. And it disappeared pretty quickly, which is always a good sign. The recipe below, from Martha Stewart, calls for creme fraiche, but I went for marscapone and that worked really well.

*****

Ingredients
FOR THE PATE SUCREE
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup cold (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons ice water, plus more if needed

FOR THE STREUSEL
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of salt
1/4 cup cold (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

FOR THE FILLING
1 1/2 pounds ripe (4 to 5 medium) yellow peaches, pitted and quartered
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
5 tablespoons creme fraiche

Make the pate sucree: Pulse flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor to combine. Add butter; process until mixture resembles coarse meal, about 10 seconds. add egg yolk, and pulse. With machine running, add ice water in a slow, steady stream through feed tube until dough just holds together. Turn out dough onto a work surface; shape into a disk. Wrap in plastic, and refrigerate at least 1 hour (up to 2 days).

Make the streusel: Sift together sugar, flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Using your hands or a pastry blender, cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough to about 1/8 inch thick. Fit into a 9 1/2- or 10-inch pie plate (about 1 1/2 inches deep). Trim edge to 1 inch; fold under, and crimp as desired. Pierce bottom of dough all over with a fork. Transfer to freezer for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cover edge of crust with foil. Line crust with parchment paper, and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake, covered, 10 minutes. Remove weights and parchment (keep foil on edge). Bake until pale golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes more. Transfer to a wire rack to cool slightly; remove foil; reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees.

Make the filling: Put peaches into a medium bowl, and sprinkle with sugar and salt; gently toss to coat. let stand 15 minutes. Spread 2 tablespoons creme fraiche onto bottom of crust; sprinkle with one-third of the streusel. Arrange peaches on top; spread or dot with remaining 3 tablespoons creme fraiche. Sprinkle with remaining streusel.

Bake pie until creme fraiche is bubbling and streusel is golden brown, about 50 minutes. Cover edge of crust with foil if it's browning too quickly. Let cool on a wire rack 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

summertime jam.

2010-08-15T03:43:00.000-07:00

This is an old favourite that I like to make each summer - it started out as peach-rosemary jam, but quickly morphed into a jewel-coloured, translucent, pink plum-thyme jam. It's very softly set, best served out with a spoon, and spreads into a pool of delicate plummy sweetness. Here is the recipe once again, with a few photos.

*****
Peach Rosemary or Plum Thyme Jam

1 lb. peaches or plums (peel the peaches by cutting a slit, dropping them into boiling water, and removing the skins), pitted and chopped
2 cups of sugar or 2 cups of unsweetened grape juice concentrate (the jam won't be too sweet, but mostly tart)
a handful of fresh thyme or rosemary sprigs
a squirt of fresh lemon juice

I don't use any pectin in this recipe because both peaches and plums have enough to set into a great, soft jam on their own.

Mix all the ingredients in a big bowl and allow it to sit in the fridge overnight, stirring occasionally until all the sugar dissolves.
Bring to a boil in a big saucepan, and cook for about 20 minutes at medium heat, mashing up the fruit chunks. Remove the thyme/rosemary once the jam is sticky and reduced, and bottle according to your favourite method. I process these in boiling water for about 7 minutes, and then leave them to cool upright for 24 hours. They almost always all seal! It keeps for a good year, but refrigerate after opening.

runner bean cassoulet.

2010-08-08T14:02:00.000-07:00

I have a funny feeling about France. I'm simultaneously drawn to the landscapes, architecture, language, fashion, and frustrated by the cuisine. I know, saying such a thing is dangerous - I love French food, but I can so rarely eat it for all the meat it involves. The last time I was in France, on a sustainable food conference no less, I spent most of the weekend hungry. I attended (as part of the conference) a six-course, Michelen-starred meal at which I couldn't eat a thing - and no one seemed to care. And the following morning we were encouraged, as young food activists, to eat less meat and to go vegetarian. It all seemed a bit odd to me, and between hunger pangs I spent some time thinking about all the French food I would love to eat, sans meat.

Cassoulet, for example, is a prime example of a dish that just exudes both French and carnivorous sensibilities. Rich and heartening, it's the kind of thing I'd like to eat as a vegetarian - without the sausage, chicken, etc. This is a lighter summer twist on it - completely veggie, but still as flavourful. My mom sent me some of her homemade herbs de provence the other week, so they feature heavily here. Delish.

*****

1 or 2 cups of runner beans, topped and tailed
1 tin butter beans, drained and rinsed
1 carrot, chopped
1 small aubergine, chopped
1 courgette, chopped
1 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
8 small tomatoes, chopped or one tin of tomatoes
2 tbsp. tomato paste
2 tbsp. herbs de provence
2 tbsp. olive oil
salt and pepper

Slowly sauté your onions in olive oil over medium heat, adding in your garlic once they are translucent. Add in your carrot and aubergine, and stir occasionally to keep them from sticking. Add in your courgette, tomato paste, and tomatoes, topping the mixture up with about 1/2 cup of water (use your judgement here). Simmer for five minutes, and then stir in your butter beans, herbs, and season to taste. Add in your runner beans and simmer for a further five minutes. Cover and bake in an oven at 350 degrees F for about an hour, checking after forty minutes if it needs a splash more water. Allow to cool slightly before serving.